So did you pay over MSRP or did you roll negative into the blackwing to begin with? Unless you wrecked it or put on a ton of miles, they are around $50k at auction. Figure $54k-$55k selling it yourself. And original MSRP was around $60k, give or take. Add taxes and fees, you were into it for about $66k. Been paying (I hope) 14 mos on an 84-mo note. Even if $0 down… well, I can’t get to $1450. Something is very wrong here.
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Does anyone work with Fords in the NJ market?
they can get over 80k easy with carbon and other options not saying this is the case here
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Nissan Ariya or any other EV with $12,000+ in rebates. It’s not free money, it just helps with re-borrowing all that negative equity. Anything over the lender’s LTV limit you’ll need to put down.
How much cash can you put down?
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Ford lease programs are generally trash, hence no one here wastes time working “deals” that no one wants.
The absence of a brand in Marketplace speaks volumes.
Yikes. I hope folks didn’t do that with a CT4 instead of just get a CT5. But what do i know?
Looking for brokers in the DFW area (TX) who work with CDJR
Looking to lease (and then buyout) a Chysler Pacifica Limited/Pinnacle PHEV
Have a trade in - 2021 Chrysler Pacifica Limited PHEV with 26k miles
I see that there is about 15,250 in rebates (7000 Region specific lease cash + 7500 EV - Stellantis or CCAP + 750 CCAP customer bonus cash)
Looking to do the trade+purchase in the same transaction to save a bit on the insane TX taxes.
Unfortunately not an option
I came real close to closing a deal on a Grand Cherokee 4xe but payments were around $1300
MSRP was $75k plus negative rolled into it and dealer markup
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@Evo1213 This is the best way (and likely the only way without throwing serious cash) to lower your monthly payments. A leftover MY23 EV Jeep would make a great contender. Money factor (rent charge) is very low, should be able to get a deep discount, and there are a ton of incentives.
That’s because you’re throwing a good ~$600/mo onto the deal, immediately, assuming a 36 mo lease and ~$20k of negative equity rolled in.
How tf is that anywhere close to a deal?
Cycle needs to end some time.
You never answered how much you can put down
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What’s the payoff? What’s the APR? What’s the highest offer you have received without a trade involved?
If you are just buying it, why swap for exactly what you already have?
Warranty - I hate these - wife won’t look at anything else - in the 3 years I owned it, it spent 4-5 months in the shop.
It’s supposed to have a 10yr/100k hybrid warranty - there was an issue with the coolant pump (the battery transmission and engine share the same coolant reservoir) but Chrysler refused to cover this under warranty (on my 2018 PacHy)
I don’t qualify for the EV rebates. Leasing to lessen the impact of flushing money down the drain
Mopar extended warranty is always a hit or miss -
No wonder this minivan was ranked first in the least dependable car/van category this year and 4 years running 
Hi, I am looking to lease a Mercedes 2023 GLC 300. Can someone help me get a good lease on this?
So why buy it out?
On my wife’s last Town & Country, at time of purchase, I took their lifetime bumper-to-bumper. Never paid a dime for any repair. I don’t think they offer such a program anymore, unfortunately.
I own the 2021 PacHy - was a lease bought it out
In early 2021 these were listed at a 49k MSRP - same car and same options now cost 63k - way to go inflation 
especially on a Chrysler
These are more heavily incentivized in CO and NorthEast - hard to come by in the south. Tried a couple different dealers but they would rather have them sit on the lot for 300+ days rather than leasing through CCAP - they only work with Ally (which doesn’t offer the same rebates)