Hi! I was wondering should I go with the lowest miles then pre pay later or should I over calculate the best miles option upfront. The car I’m looking at is .20 per and .25 post. The lowest miles is 3/7500 for $287 the highest is $330 for 3/13500.
If I have a driver, it comes at no extra cost; however, if I use a transport service, I will have to cover the bill. Is there anything I should be concerned about when using a dealership driver service?”
Hi!
You literally have to do the math on the mileage. I’m about to sign a lease that is a second car for me, but I’m going with 12,000 miles because I anticipate it being my “road trip car” and using my other (owned) car for more local things. I knew I’d kick myself down the road if I needed and didn’t get those extra 6,000 miles. It’s only $17 a month on that car, so it’s far less than the mileage would cost.
As for shipping vs. driving, it depends on the distance and if you want to be the first person to put miles on the car. Dealerships have insurance and use experienced drivers. My owned car was driven 350 miles from one dealership to the other (NH to NJ) when I got it, but otherwise, I couldn’t have gotten the color combination I wanted because it was so rare.
There is no substitute for math and having a solid handle on how many miles you’ll actually drive.
On some recent Audi leases it’s been more expensive to drive 10,000 miles a year on a 10,000 mile/year lease than it was to drive 10,000 miles a year on the 7,500 lease and pay by the mile for all of the additional 2,500 per year.
My sense is that a lot of money is being wasted by people who bump up to the next threshold “to be safe” because they’re terrified of having to pay a few hundred dollars more at disposition.
The psychology is not unlike spending $1,200 or 2,000 on “wheel and tire protection” to avoid having to spend $125 OOP like I just did on a single cosmetic wheel repair, 15 months into a 24-month lease. (I’ve also spent $0 on a repair for a nail puncture in a tire)
Great insight!! Thank you!
Yeah, I did the math - $1,380 + tax for 6,000 miles or $17 a month ($612 over 36 months), making it a no-brainer. I go to a lot of events and activities that are easily 100 miles round-trip, sometimes more than once a week, but it’s not like commuting where I could easily estimate my mileage.
Oh wow this is a great point!
Thanks after doing the math it makes sense to buy ahead on this deal.
Ok to be clear you do not purchase any additional care ( term care, road hazard, and ding protection)? Without the term one it would be an additional 50 a month.
Nothing, ever. To me it’s complete waste of money, and this stuff is purchased mainly to assuage irrational fears over very, very small risks that generally cost relatively nothing to fix (see wheel repair example above).
Minor wear is included in your lease agreement and therefore not chargeable, and major damage is why you pay for car insurance. So what’s left in between isn’t much…
Would you buy an $8 protection package in case something happens to your $15 alarm clock?
Same idea - and it’s only eight dollars / 33 cents a month! 
One exception, I bought Audi Care on my current car for a 1% bump on the residual, and then (at the dealer’s recommendation) I canceled it and got a refund after the lease funded, which covered more than one full lease payment.
So by cancelling Audicare after lease funded you got to keep the 1% residual bump and got a refund of almost the entire price of Audicare?
They can’t change the RV after the contract is signed and in certain states they can’t refuse a cancellation request on the service contract.
100% refund (this is a California lease, not all states work the same).
The car is leased from AFS, but Audi Care was purchased from the dealer.
There is no contractual trigger to alter the terms of the lease I have with AFS if the product I purchased from the dealer is later canceled.
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