I have been watching the forum on the sidelines for quite some time. Appreciate all of the insight into hacking leases, and am now in the market for a new car so figured it is a good time to jump in.
I don’t believe you got much time trying to negotiate (the support supposedly ends on the 28th) this the right way. So maybe call/email internet manager and ask them the bottom line cash price for it, run it through calculator and see what kind of payment you get. Don’t tell them you want to lease, that should come up as an alternative after you negotiated the very bottom price on the car. If it does not work, just go straight to the dealer and see what you can negotiate in person, maybe they will realize you are serious then and deal.
Agreed. If they do respond they might be directing you to the 2012-2013 CPO cars on their lot with that offer.
There are some dealers that just aren’t interested in discounting deeply because they don’t have an incentive to. Might have already hit their goals for the month.
In this case you need to figure out a realistic offer. Let’s say you want a sub $300 payment. Need to figure out how you’d get there and back calculate a reasonable offer.
So you figure out the residual for 24 months on that car (roughly $30.6k), calculate your rent charge (about $100 a month with BMW MF) then let’s say $150 a month depreciation cost. So $150x24 months = $3600. Add that to the residual, and looking at $34,200 cap cost (not including accq fee, dealer fee, etc). Add the $3k rebate and looking at an ideal dealer sale price of $37,200-ish before rebates to be a reasonable offer for an average hacker deal.
If they are listing the car for $41,xxx without the rebate included then you are probably just too far apart already to be taken seriously. If their advertised price includes the rebate then shit out of luck to even begin.
Don’t take any of my numbers as exact. It’s 3:30am and I’m in bed on my phone cause I can’t sleep. So all just tough guesstimate.