New to leasing, how does this look? 2018 Dodge Durango SXT

Be as specific as possible in the title if you are posting a deal – include car model, monthly payment, and money down.

Include as much information as possible in your post, and even a celebratory picture. :wink:

Year, Make, Model, and Trim:
2018 Dodge Durango SXT AWD w/3rd Row

Saved Numbers on Leasehackr Calculator:

**MSRP: $37,185
**Selling Price: $36,000
**Monthly Payment: $249
**Cash Due at Signing: $3,619
**Incentives:$5,000 (+1,000 for my p.o.s. car)

**Annual Mileage:12,000
**Leasehackr Score:??

I hope i did this correctly. I’m including a screenshot of the lease calculation from dealer (partially cut off and im not sure what a couple of the fields are), and a pic of the car.

Last one and im excited to move fast as I’ve neverhad a new car.

What does that $3619 cash due at signing consist of? I hope it isn’t a down payment it is recommended to never put money down on lease car is totaled or stolen money lost. I never do a trade in and purchase at same time. It just clouds your current deal.

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This is actually a pretty good deal. As long as MF is base. It’s around 10% discount which is good, do you think the car your trading is worth more then $1k or is it just a real pos? I would not do the down payment and roll everything into the lease and just put first payment DAS, 0.00019 is basically free money. It’s about $349 a month which beats the 1% rule and it’s on a Chrysler Capital lease. Maybe push for more discount if you really want to squeeze everything out of it.

What is your POS car? That price point might sell quickly on Craigslist if it runs for much higher than $1000. I just sold a 2003 Accord (with original timing belt) with a KBB value and carvana/vroom appraisals of $1000-$1500 for $4000 in a day. The number of inquiries was getting annoying so many people wanted it.

How’s that a 10% discount, discounts don’t include rebates.

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2008 ford taurus X in moderate condition. I could probably get more than $1000 on CL, good point.

Yeah, the selling price looks terrible to me. You’ve gotta be able to get 10% off on one of these.

I wasnt sure, but why not? The final sale price is effectively 31k.

So the rebates dont count? Why not?

What point would you push on for negotiation? Just get the sale price down, so 34k before rebates?

Meh, I guess overall it’s OK if Jdawg21’s calculation of $349 is right. I just feel like you could do a little better on the sales price.

$34K before rebates would be a lot better

They come from the manufacturer, they aren’t a discount. Anybody walking in the door gets them, what makes a great deal is getting the highest discount on the car before rebates.

I calculate 335 no money down except $619 for all fees and 1st mo payment.

For sure. I’m new and just trying to learn the basic concepts. Of course 10% below MSRP would be great at the end of the day. But if 10% below is rule of thumb regardless of rebates, then maybe the rebates dropping this to 31k or about 15% below msrp is still a good deal all in?

The trick is to tell potential buyers how many thousands of dollars worth of custom, or “costum” parts your POS has, and make sure they know not to lowball you, because “I know what I have here”.


My bad I completely read that wrong. I couldn’t see what that extra discount was for $3172.14 because the pics cut off. I see it now. Need more coffee.