I hope i did this correctly. I’m including a screenshot of the lease calculation from dealer (partially cut off and im not sure what a couple of the fields are), and a pic of the car.
What does that $3619 cash due at signing consist of? I hope it isn’t a down payment it is recommended to never put money down on lease car is totaled or stolen money lost. I never do a trade in and purchase at same time. It just clouds your current deal.
This is actually a pretty good deal. As long as MF is base. It’s around 10% discount which is good, do you think the car your trading is worth more then $1k or is it just a real pos? I would not do the down payment and roll everything into the lease and just put first payment DAS, 0.00019 is basically free money. It’s about $349 a month which beats the 1% rule and it’s on a Chrysler Capital lease. Maybe push for more discount if you really want to squeeze everything out of it.
What is your POS car? That price point might sell quickly on Craigslist if it runs for much higher than $1000. I just sold a 2003 Accord (with original timing belt) with a KBB value and carvana/vroom appraisals of $1000-$1500 for $4000 in a day. The number of inquiries was getting annoying so many people wanted it.
They come from the manufacturer, they aren’t a discount. Anybody walking in the door gets them, what makes a great deal is getting the highest discount on the car before rebates.
For sure. I’m new and just trying to learn the basic concepts. Of course 10% below MSRP would be great at the end of the day. But if 10% below is rule of thumb regardless of rebates, then maybe the rebates dropping this to 31k or about 15% below msrp is still a good deal all in?
The trick is to tell potential buyers how many thousands of dollars worth of custom, or “costum” parts your POS has, and make sure they know not to lowball you, because “I know what I have here”.
My bad I completely read that wrong. I couldn’t see what that extra discount was for $3172.14 because the pics cut off. I see it now. Need more coffee.
