I know there isnt much discount off msrp, but i was assured i qualified for the full 7500 in rebates. Obviously quoted with tier 1 approval, which im confident ill get. Is this a good deal? Also i completely forgot to mention to dealer i have $1000 bonus cash from jeep (i know they can look it up would that be included in the 7500 already?) and i have the ability to do a discount through my work (am i able to use that to get a bigger discount off msrp than the 500 on the sheet?)
Thank you for the calculator! I dont have the breakdown of the 7500 but i guess my question would be why does the breakdown matter? The more rebates that bring down the price the better, right? Im not trying to sound rude at all, im genuinely curious and wanting to learn.
Correct, the rebates are just one part of the deal, but you need the break down to make sure you are getting everything you are eligible for ( jeep loyalty, military, etc.)
I would imagine you could find 8-10% off plus incentives/rebates. That being said, not all dealers (actually very few) are willing to entertain those prices and will take some effort and work on your end. Personally, I would want at least 10% off plus all incentives to consider a jeep product.
So i believe the 1500 “returning lease mailer” (that was the salesperson wording) is the same as the tdm it was an email i received, it reads “your private $1500 bonus cash allowance”, and was told i could only use higher of the 2
What’s the point of calling more dealers if you don’t know what you’re trying to negotiate to?
You can call 10 more dealers and you’re just going to get 10 more awful quotes like this.
Spend some time on here, do some more research, and put together a target deal. Then reach out to the dealer and make them an offer, not the other way around.
I think my problem is im most worried about monthly payment. Well one of the first things ive read was dont tell them where you want to be monthly. As ive said im very new to this and obviously have a lot of reading to do but i feel like its easier to negotiate msrp when you know exact incentives you qualify for and arent too worried about monthly. Every website i visit has a ton of different incentives and it is a little difficult to definitively say yes i qualify for that. What if i go in and negotiate 8% off msrp and the monthly is out of my budget? To me that would be a waste. Now that i know the exact incentives and msrp that get me to a friendly monthly i can call around and anything i negotiate now is a bonus. Maybe im way off on this approach but thats what made the most sense. And again any insight is welcomed. Knowing the ins and outs of car negotiating can be daunting and feeling like you got taken advantage of i a big fear. Thanks for the help!
Once you can use the lease calculator properly AND have all the right figures in the right places you will know what the payment should be. Its much easier to just say “If you can get to $xxx per month with $xxxx DAS on a 36mo/10kmi lease on this stock number XXXX I will come in XXX time to buy the car with a deposit over the phone and a credit app online now.”
You can only make that offer if you have everything ready to go with your researched calculator offer ahead of time.
Tons of PHEVs have $7,500 or more in lease cash. There’s nothing to qualify for. I’d be wary of someone gaslighting you like that.
That’s normal the first time. That being said, leasehacking is for people who actually this part of the process. The hunt or the chase or whatever you want to call it. If you’re not getting a thrill out of it, why do you want to transact again in 27 months?
There are two types of people in the car world. The thrill seekers who want to chase again and again and again. And the set-it-and-forget-it ones who can buy something, extend the warranty and not think about it again for 7-8 years. You should probably identify which one you are before going further
