I see everyone posting the MSRP and then the “negotiated price” or “selling price” of the vehicle. Is this the main negotiating when talking about a lease? How exactly do you go about negotiating leases? Thank you for any advice!
@Storm selling price is the main thing to focus on and then everything else will follow… As you will have the hardest time on it… if theres no agreed selling price theres no point in talking about anything else.
Negotiate selling price of car (dealer discount) just as you would on a purchase. Keep discount and rebates (if any) seperate.
Never mention a target payment until negotiation of price is complete and even then only as a cross check against the numbers presented in leasehackr calculator.
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Read Leasing 101 and How to Calculate Payments
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Thanks for the help. How do you go about negotiating the selling price? What phrasing do you use? I’m not really sure how to approach it.
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What is the selling price?
Can you do $xxxxx?
Can you do $xxxx off MSRP before incentives?
Can you do xx% off MSRP before incentives?
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Only it has to be done in pig Latin. They won’t understand what he’s asking, otherwise!
@Storm theres lots of brokers on here if your not sure how to approach this… what brand car u looking for?
Now if you want to go at it yourself then your gonna have to do what @max_g said and do lots of reading to understand.
Dont mention any rebates or VPP’s you have in your back pocket until the dealer gives you their absolute bottom. They’ll hate you for it but for most part are stuck and will have to apply the further discount. If you mention those before, they will bake them into your discount and it wont be as large.
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Thanks! I’l definitely use this when going into my next lease.
I only do zero drive off leases (with no trade ins)…the only thing I worry about is the monthly payment with tax. I know it’s heresy on this board to not negotiate sales price, but I haven’t done that on my past dozen leases and seem to always come out ok. If you see what others are paying (edmunds, this forum etc…), then you’ll know what a good deal is.
I let the dealer know what I want to pay, and let them figure it out.
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Seeing how much the average person pays on a lease is not confidence inspiring. But if that works for you then fly with it.
I too like to live dangerously.
I’m glad it’s worked for you in the past, but I highly recommend that anyone else not depend on the dealer to blindly meet a monthly payment target. It’s important to know where the money is going, what you’re paying for, and the monthly payment will fall into place, naturally.
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**Surely the selling price from the dealer is only of many elements in the lease calculation? Some makes and models lease much better - almost unbelievable rates - given manufacturer and dealer incentives. This forum is doing a great job in telling us what is available. The unicorn deals are running in herds! BMW executive demos, on lease where available, seem to be especially attractive this month?
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Wow this is terrible advice.
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Really? And, how do you know if you’ve come out okay without crunching numbers? How do you know you didn’t leave money on the table?
One can never be 100% sure they haven’t left money on the table.
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It’s not average…average people don’t scour leasehackr or edmunds forums. Average people aren’t aware that ANY lease can be done with zero drive off.
I’m not getting my price from friends and what dealer ads!
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Copy that.
I guess what I’m getting at is that if I emailed/called any number of BMW dealers and asked for a sub-$200 quote on an X2 or (insert entry level BMW of your choice) Loaner or otherwise the nicest response I’d be likely to get is to put enough down to get it there.
Here is an example. I had an Audi Allroad in it’s 22nd month…whenever I went to the dealer for service, salespeople tried to sell me a new car. I told the guy I would be willing to get a Q5 P+ (49.5K) for $550 month with tax/audicare/36/10. I was paying about $540 for my Allroad.
He called me one day and said we have a deal…it took two hours because they screwed up…my selling price on the Q5 ended up being 40K to get those numbers as my Allroad was upside down AND had a $1000 dent in the rear bumper! But they honored the deal. Only caveat was I had to pay first month…which I was OK with.
Ended up totaling car 9 months later…and pocketing $3500 less $1000 deductible because they sold me the car at silly price.
I would bet the farm that had I said I want the car for $40K I would have been laughed out of the dealership.
It’s all the same, IMHO. But when you talk monthly payments, you’re talking the same language as the dealers.