This is my first post, and hoping I’m providing the right input. I’m shopping for a Jeep Gladiator Overland 4x4 and have my eye on a vehicle at my local dealership. I work for a company that is in the FCA affiliate program. I recently found the Jeep Gladiator Forum where a member posted a google sheets worksheet that compares MSRP to Dealer invoice costs including options (very helpful). My FCA discount starts with 1% off dealer invoice. But I would like advice on how far lower to shoot for. I’ve calculated a leasehackr worksheet based on 2% off dealer invoice. And the score comes to 9.5 years. If I achieve this, is it a good deal? Some more info and link to the leasehackr calculator below.
MSRP with options is $49,980. I’m in Ohio and have to pay taxes upfront on total lease payments (which I will roll into the lease payments). I believe I can get $500 from a TrueCar rebate, and $3,500 rebate from the current Jeep incentives. The calculator shows my monthly payment coming to $477.
The leasehackr score is a number with very, very limited use. This isn’t a use case where it helps.
Your best bet is to read through the number of threads on here regarding gladiator leases and establish a comparable pre-incentive discount percentage.
What are the current incentives you are referring to? At least in my region there’s a possible combination of the $2,000 in lease cash, $1,000 on select inventory marked as having it, and a targeted offer such as a bonus mailer or Truecar. If you definitely have $3,500 it sounds like you have the $1,500 “TIPP Prospect targeted offer” and you can’t stack Truecar with that. Believe me, I tried! As for discount, it seems that 7% off of invoice is what you want to try to get, but I haven’t been able to pull it off yet. Those Jeep build sheets are very helpful in calculating it though!
I got my base Sport ($39K MSRP) in March for ~6% off invoice pre-incentive. I started off with TrueCar and FCA affiliate programs, but did much better without them. I found, once I mentioned these programs, I was locked into a 1% or 2% off best offer. You just need to find a CDJR dealer willing to co-operate with you, as they are somewhat notoriously difficult. You are already on the JT forum, there are a few out of state dealers who advertise 7% off invoice, so this can be easy or hard depending on how much you are willing to travel. @ElectricEliminator is the expert on rebates so make sure to follow his advise. Otherwise, you will be limited by inventory, since no new vehicles are getting delivered, and the vehicle is selling well enough that this month FCA actually raised the MF. (my Sport is now leasing for about $100/mo more). You are probably better off this month going with US Bank instead, so try to find a dealer w/ a US Bank relationship. FWIW the deals on Wrangler this month are much better then Gladiator.
your calculator seems way off. not sure where you are getting the MF/RV and you are missing alot of CDJR fees. Here is my calculator for reference.
My local dealership’s website is listing $3500 in rebate. It doesn’t break down into more specific terminology. I haven’t talked to the dealer about this yet so don’t have further details. I want to get my target deal worked out in my head before approaching them. Thanks for the input on 7% target. Very helpful.
Ask them to break down the available rebates for a lease. If they are showing employee pricing that’s not compatible with a lease. You get the lease cash instead. Check the disclaimers, a lot of dealers like to get cute and stack multiple offers that nobody can or will qualify for simultaneously (Military, First Responder, Mobility, Employee purchase, Realtor association, etc, etc.)
Well I used a Cleveland zip code on Autobytel since you said Ohio and there does indeed appear to be an additional $1,500 in bonus cash specifically on the Overland trim. So $3,500 checks out. What you need to do is get a truecar/usaa/penfed coupon to stack with that, or see if you qualify for some other targeted offer. Then search every Overland you can find within an area you are willing to travel to see if any of them have the 43CK1E Rebate, the $1,000 “VIN Specific Select Inventory Bonus cash”.
I can’t take the credit, it was @Seby12 who brought that incentive to my attention a little while ago. I’m still trying to determine whether this is a special tag that a dealer can place at will on a particular car they want to move, or if it is assigned by FCA. I was told that it was assigned by FCA by a dealer, but I’m not entirely sure that I believe that. It doesn’t hurt to ask if it’s something they can tag the car with to make or break a deal.
OP, you too will be in this state of mind after you start interacting with FCA dealers. They are the worst.
If you’ve been following @ElectricEliminator and I’s saga (which you definitely should) neither of us have our cars yet. We’re both close but this is after weeks of negotiation.
Getting a leasehackr worthy deal with these takes a lot of time, dedication and frustration (mostly with FCA dealers).
Here is my advice before you embark on this journey.
US Bank is generally the way to go as the MF is much lower
Cast your net far and wide. Finding the right combination of deep discount, US Bank and general courtesy will be difficult.
The Sport trim leases the best but are pretty bare. The Sport S has more equipment and is probably the sweet spot (but I am biased as I’m getting a Sport S). The Overlands have higher discounts but lower RV, you’ll have to see if it’s worth it. Don’t even bother with the Rubicons.
If I were you I wouldn’t start seriously looking until you get May numbers. You’re not going to get a LH worthy deal with only four days to negotiate in April.
