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Not to mention any “$620” X3M you see advertised on here will almost certainly require ~$3k DAS + ~$5k in MSDs, and that $620 is of course pre-tax.

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The base X3M you mentioned was actually a true base @ $74k MSRP, it included 7 MSDs, and required ~$2,800 or so in driveoffs. With all that, it was $619+ tax. That puts in on par with zero driveoff @ $740+ tax with no MSDs.

Moved to SAL, delete please this post

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I don’t think you need to be in the $700’s for this to move. It’s a fully loaded X3M Comp. Just need the right buyer and some more patience, unfortunately. It’ll go eventually. The good news is, as time goes on, the incentive you’re offering drops the effective monthly payment more and more.

You asked where the payment needs to be to move it.

When someone asks that question, to me it means, what will get rid of it “now”?

That’s why I said a 7 in front will do the trick.

I’m sure you can get more. But the way you asked made me think there was a sense of urgency.

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The thing is you are competing against other vehicles on SAL by payment, there’s no filter for options there.

Also most people on here or swapalease aren’t hardcore enthusiasts who want this package, that package, etc etc Most just take a look at the payment and decide if they want it.

And like @Bostoncarconcierge said, you asked what the payment needs to be to move it, when you say that everyone assumes you want to get rid of it yesterday.

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I think you just need to wait for the right buyer to come along. It’s a great car, and in due time you can find your buyer for $899. I was in the market last month and might have even messaged you on the BMW forum. I was ready to pay $899 as it’s a decent deal for Texas, where we pay the full sales tax on purchase price. But, I just found a better deal IMHO.

Here’s your apple to apples deals since you asked - at $747 plus tax. More miles but also a better Effective miles per month. Good luck.

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Here’s OP: I overpaid so I think others should overpay too when taking my bad decision over.

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Moved to SAL, delete please this post

Something is worth what someone is willing to pay. Just like real estate. For the last month, no one is willing to pay what you’re asking. You can keep paying the monthly and hope someone comes along, or you could potentially get crushed if the economic environment gets worse. Your car, your prerogative to gamble.

This is equivalent to a 9% off deal (with loyalty) this month.

That’s the problem. I think 99/100 people would happily just go buy a brand new non-comp for 11% off MSRP right now, if someone forced them to buy an X3M.

I think the biggest issue here additionally is anyone outside of NJ is going to be taxed twice! On the original payment as well pre incentive.

How do you figure?

I figure it like this, you take base payment of 10xx and then add tax back into it, you then use incentive of 6k to factor into the payment and get a final payment.

Where are you pulling the double tax from?

It’s possible OP paid up-front taxes when he leased the car and rolled them into the lease, so his $1,130 payment already has NJ taxes in it. But for someone in CA or AZ, for example, they would need to pay tax on the base payment of $1,130 (which already has NJ taxes rolled into it). I think that’s what he means by double tax. Yes, technically you take the $1,130, add tax to it, then use the $6k-7k incentive to offset the total payment for an “effective” payment of $8xx/9xx (depending on the tax %). But there just seems to be an inherent unfairness built into the whole scenario of having paid tax twice on the car. Unless I’m totally misunderstanding how NJ taxes and subsequent transfers work… This is just my understanding and guess as to what @Clutch meant, and I can certainly understand his point.

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Exactly. Unless the payment doesn’t have NJ taxes built in.

Makes sense, if he rolled it in.

I was assuming he paid up front.

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Moved to SAL, delete please this post

Moved to SAL, delete please this post

Moved to SAL, delete please this post