Band steering is when the AP presents one SSID and will try to connect on 5 GHz first, then 2.4. It is supposed to make it easier than separate SSIDs and will allow the client to jump on 2.4 if the 5 gets too weak to keep the connection without switching “networks” with a new SSID.
What I was talking about is supported WiFi speeds. Some APs will support a connection down to 1 or 2 Mbps
So imagine you have 2 APs, AP A and AP B. You connect with you new Macbook to AP A and are getting full internet bandwidth speed on a speed test. Now you walk over to AP B and are standing right next to it and run a speed test again but are getting a quarter of your bandwidth.
The client could still be connected to AP A because even though AP B has a stronger signal, the client is hanging on AP A because it supports the speed down to 2 Mbps. If you turn off support for slower speeds, that will not allow the client to stay connected to that AP and it will roam and find the stronger signal AP B. But it is always the clients decision to roam, so this is a way to encourage him to.
Careful you don’t go crazy, that is if you can even do this on your AP, but don’ go too low or you may not be able to connect some legacy devices.
What I meant is that for some reason eero’s band steering, when switched on, forces some devices to switch away from the closest AP, while others correctly switch to the closest. Turning it off sends these devices back to the closest. But eero claims that devices should switch seamlessly between APs, without band steering (which is in beta, anyway)
I highly recommend AmpliFi. I got the one with base and two points but the Alien is also great. I have both and prefer the base with two mesh points for greater coverage.
Ubiquiti, Google Wifi I’ve heard is good, but I use Verizon’s solution for enterprise, it’s seamless and included with my bill. 70/month for gigabit fiber and unlimited data, at 1.4tb this month.
I have been through a number of setups in the last few months as nothing was working to my liking. Right now I have 2 Asus rt-ax3000 routers working in a mesh. Works well with my Gigabit Ethernet. I had Velop but they consistently dropped my nest cameras. Had a cheaper one from Amazon that I returned immediately. Tried added mesh points to my modem/router and that stunk as well. WiFi 6 on my present setup works great with the handful of devices I have that can utilize it.
For the highest thru-put you want to hardwire direct connect to the Fios ONT, and not a port from the Router they provide. Please confirm which one you are connecting the extender and wireless AP to?
I had a Google WiFi router for about a year. The last few months it would just randomly stop passing traffic from wireless clients. It wasn’t my ISP modem as my wired clients would work no problem. The only fix was a hard reboot. Basically no troubleshooting available from the app. Only thing I could get was (useless) logs from http access direct to the router.
Ended up using one of my lab Aruba APs to serve my home wireless and have had no issues whatsoever (not comparing enterprise wireless tech to genpop tech).
On that note: free Google Wifi router (NLS-1304-25) if anyone is interested.
Get a small 5-10port Gbit switch ($20), connect that to ONT, and direct connect your gear to the switch. As someone already mentioned, your wireless speeds are being limited by the 10/100Mbit port they are connect to.
FiOS does support this setup. They can still see if you don’t have internet access. The only functionality you lose by not using their router is the remote DVR (you can’t watch your recorded shows away from hom), the on-screen caller ID and you can’t remotely set DVR programming.
They still support your internet connection. Using your own router gives you all the flexibility you want without paying monthly fees (or $200 outright) for their router.
This is incorrect, you do not need the FiOS router for TV. You can use a MoCA injector. It “injects” data into the coax line for the STB’s DVR and guide functionality.
While this is possible you do not want to do it. Connecting a switch directly to your ONT would exposed all of your devices directly to Verizon’s network which is really dangerous from a security standpoint.
There is also a chance that Verizon would then be stuck provisioning an IP address to each device, which they probably don’t allow anyway.
The only reason to connect any device directly to the ONT is for troubleshooting, ie testing if your router is failing, etc.
If the switch is L3 (so now it’s a router) and has DHCP and NAT capabilities you would just deploy that. I had my Aruba 24port switch straight off my Spectrum modem for quite a while. I had a /24 subnet (subnet A) set up with a DHCP scope to hand out IPs. I had one interface in subnet B that would source the IP from DHCP (coming from the Spectrum modem) so it had a public IP.
I definitely saw external attempts to ssh, telnet, etc… but nothing on subnet A was reachable from the internet of course.
