Is it okay to mention Edmunds’ lease deals when negotiating with dealers? I plan to compare offers to see if they can match or beat other dealers. I know its the golden rule not to mention Lease Hackr, so I wanted to check if it’s acceptable to bring up Edmunds.
Come up with your own deal using research you have done and a lease calculator or spreadsheet and propose it.
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Why bother? they will just counter with ‘That doesn’t apply in CA’ rule.
As Gohawks said, knowing what you can afford and what it should cost in CA is the best way.
Or use one of the 4+ brokers here in CA like @Jeff_BeachCitiesAuto and see if they have a deal you can afford.
Edit : I just noticed the Audi part, I don’t think Jeff does that so my next recommendation is @Omegaautogroup
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Know. Your. Target.
Comparing offers and asking them to beat them is a terrible strategy. It doesn’t tell you if the eventual deal is actually good or not. It just tells you it was the least worst. Sometimes the least worst is a terrible deal.
You would just be perceived as a noob so what’s the upside?
So, just use the lease calculator?
I thought it might be more effective to show them some lease numbers from Edmunds to get the conversation started, rather than sharing my own calculations.
Absolutely work the calc to know what payment/DAS should be with expected discount, any incentives, base MF and RV for your term and say hey I will pay X with X DAS for X months/X miles per year and will sign today for VIN # XXX.
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What’s your target?
Okay, thank you. I read so much conflicting information here that it’s hard to get a solid answer. Some say don’t mention MF because they know you’re cross-shopping and will ignore you. Personally, I think it’s fine to mention it because you can get it from the manufacturer.
Under $750/mo with $0 down. Many of the listings I am seeing in Edmunds fit that target.
Many of those ‘listings’ have little **** under them so you have to add 100-200, why not just look under Marketplace? Do you like being abused by the dealers?
You don’t need to mention specifics of MF…you just use the base MF to calculate your payment/DAS and see if they match.
Just do this:
I will pay X with X DAS for X months/X miles per year and will sign today for VIN # XXX.
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$0 down is not $0 DAS…you need to make sure you have a handle on ‘due at signing’…some of which might be down due to cap reduction from any rebates, etc. This is why you need to go to Wiki and really learn how to lease…or just find/pay a broker here.
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The leases you see on edmunds arent useful for anything. Just forget they exist.
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I think posters have recommended not to mention the specifics upfront b/c the salesperson probably doesn’t know or care. There’s no issue w/ letting dealers know you’re cross shopping.
If a dealer wants to know how you arrived at your proposed deal, then showing your calcs might be useful.
I assume the don’t-mention-LH is b/c LH doesn’t have a great reputation w/ dealers, for obvious reasons, so it would be to your advantage to not make the dealer sour from the outset.
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I do Audi and am a broker in CA. Let me know what you’re looking for and I will see if I can help!
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