@Ursus 10?
Yes, the max.
And the $299 doc fee is a joke, but keep in mind they’re discounting the car really deep, assuming their incentive is $4,000, which is unknown for now. They might not want to go deeper, but the Nmo941 can ask for anything.
@Nmo941 - I plugged this into the Leasehackr calculator and come up with this:
I’d suggest financing the $1,285 of fees, including the doc and filing fees. If you finance the license fees, you’ll pay tax on them. You’d be looking at this, except the MSD would be $7,000 and the drive off would be $7,846. They should smell the coffee and rebate the $696 1st payment, making the DAS $7,150, but you appear to be dealing with idiots (unless I’m wrong about the Holiday Sales Event, which my rep says is nationwide).
If they catch the MF error, they could try to bump you to $719/mo, also raising the MSD to $7,500. You’ve got to decide if it’s worth it to drive all the way there to get bumped $23/mo. You could try and get an emailed promise that your drive-off would be a $7,000 deposit and the $150 registration, with 35 remaining payments of $696 including tax. If they insist on charging the $696 1st payment, you could probably force a refund of it later. They cannot pocket a rebate that you’re entitled to (assuming the HSE applies there).
It’s a flaky dealer. As they say “you like down with dogs, you wake up with fleas.”
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@Nmo941 - I was calling it the doc fee- it’s the $899 “dealer service fee.” Aptly named, but I guess par for the course in Florida. The $299 electronic filing fee is also just padding. In CA the doc fee is $80 statewide and the electronic filing fee is around $30. As @mani_is_kool says, it just gives them room to make that big discount doable. Same thing as when a dealer deep discounts a lease and marks up the MF a ton. People get sucked into the discount without realizing what really matters is the terms, cash due at signing, and payment. That’s where the rubber meets the road.
10% off is a good discount, but they don’t go really deep. We saw 12-14% off last year, granted it was on S90. But, like I said before, it must be a punched car on which they probably put 300 miles and it sat there for over 6 months (or whatever the required period is) qualifying it for $2,100.
I know its not popular here, but have you thought of buying a used 2016 XC90? Basically same vehicle - find one for $35k, add an extended warranty if you want. Payment on a 5yr loan would be less than your lease payment and you would have equity at end of 3 years if you didn’t like it.
I’m currently driving a 2016 Tahoe so as much as that might make some sense I would rather have a new vehicle. Plus, I usually always lease
A dealer has the right to make money. While I agree the dealer fee is high I would be fine with it if they got rid of all the other padding
I know, but 16 miles won’t make any difference in your payments 
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@Ursus - assuming they’ve got $4K to work with, it looks like they’re going deep to me- on the order of $3,200 below invoice minus incentive (if $4K). Even if you correct for the padded fees, it’s still $2K below invoice minus incentive.
I wonder about the car’s history. It’s not punched, but it is 13 months old (I know which one it is), which is suspicious for a mainstream configuration like it is. There’s also a $60 “rental surcharge” in the drive-off, which smells fishy. I wonder if something happened to it, even though the Carfax doesn’t show anything. It needs 4,500 miles AND 6 months of age to qualify for the $2,100 loaner incentive. There’s also a 3 month/2,250 mile loaner incentive of $1,500 that’s been out there for a while.
Being the XC90 is 13 months old- you should insist on an oil change and obtain a copy of the RO. The oil is supposed to be changed every year, no matter how few miles have been put on it. Plus make sure they update the software- and get a copy of the RO.
@cheapdad00 - you need to evaluate the price/value of a used XC90 to consider it. The ones I’ve seen out here are over-priced and 2016 is, let’s just say, the first year of production.
2016 LTZ over here. Ya want it? 
Makes it even more interesting. OP is probably better off hiring a broker than dealing with these guys.
She also loses whole year of warranty.
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At this point I’m ready too because I’m so done with this entire process! I’ve never ever had issues like this getting a vehicle before.
Anyone have any recommendations for a broker in FL?
@mani_is_kool said he doesn’t have anything, try @Benedetto. And search - there was a guy who got a good deal on Volvo in FL and he recommended his dealer.
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@Ursus - she wouldn’t lose any warranty on an un-punched car. Volvo does want the oil changed on one year old new cars, though. I think Mani would be cool- being a quality Florida broker. But his connection is out for a couple of weeks and he doesn’t have any 2018s. Plugging in a 2019 XC90 T6 Momentum for a payment estimator brings up $0 in incentives, so it looks like a 2018 is the way to go. Searching farther away from Sarasota might help. Looks like the 2019 version has a 56% RV and a MF of 0.00155 (vs 52% and 0.00165 correct MF).
Oh, right. It’s not punched.