Definitely, I really appreciate your responses as any insight is very helpful to me. I don’t exactly know what incentives they put on there, but I believe it’s just loyalty and grad but I will have to confirm. Would you recommend emailing first and then saying they can call to discuss further? I’m at the point where, if they can do it, I’ll drive right then and there and go.
Have you talked to any of the brokers here offering decent discounts on custom cars? You may have to pay shipping, but knowing what’s available before talking to a dealer gives you a great baseline.
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I haven’t, is there somewhere I can contact them? I would prefer not go through a broker, but I wouldn’t be against it if needed.
Check the market place on here
Oh, yes I saw that. It seems like my location isn’t in a large area and the ones in my area weren’t what I was looking for, unfortunately. I think I’m going to just try and negotiate with the best offer I have right now and present it to the other dealerships and ask what they can do. Earlier you mentioned no add-ons, what are some typical add-ons that dealers try to add on and how can I spot them?
Doesn’t need to be a local broker. They can ship. 10% off plus shipping fee is still going to be way cheaper than 5% off.
When I say add ons, I mean things like “phantom footprints”, window etching, tint, undercoat, gps trackers, nitrogen fills, etc. Things that are just pure dealer profit that no one actually wants.
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And to add to this, they will most likely have 1 or 2 of those things just casually listed as a line item on the sheet. They might even try to tell you that they cannot take it off or that it is installed already and cannot be removed. That is 100% BS and you do not have to accept those add ons.
Thanks for all the advice. To be on the safe side, I think I’m going to just negotiate 9% off MSRP before incentives and just ask for the MF to remain below 0.001 and no add-ons. However, I’m not sure if it’s a good idea to be that specific with the MF…thoughts?
Why would you do that? What’s the point?
Why go on the safe side before anyone tells you no?
Stop trying to make this so complicated.
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Good advice, thanks.
To dive into the mf topic a little more, current mf is .00082, so by saying no more than .001, you’re guaranteeing yourself a mark up if they use the current rates equivalent to about 1% of the msrp.
The dealer has absolutely no say in what the mf will be a few months from now. Bmw could change the programs and make buy rate .00125 if they felt like it. What would you do then? Dealer can’t make it any lower than that.
Likewise, what if buy rate drops to .00060? You’ve said .001, so now you’re getting a markup equal to about 2% of msrp.
All to save what?
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Hi there! I can answer a few of your questions. You would lock in incentives, MF, residual, etc. now, but you can take the best of what’s available between now and delivery. The way to look at it is that now is the worst it could possibly be.
I’m at 11% off of orders, base MF, no adds, $500 doc fee. You can pick it up at the performance center in SC if you’d like and either drive it from there or ship from there, so that shipping is a little bit cheaper, too.
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Do you know if this is only a BMW thing or other mfg Audi etc. Also let you lock in and use what’s best
I’m not familiar with Audi programs, sorry. I know it does vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
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