Looking for Lease Advice on Custom 2021 330i (Updated - Deal Check)

Hello,

I apologize beforehand if this is in the wrong section as I’m new to this site. I am looking to lease a custom 330i (LINK BELOW) 30k mi/36 mo. I would like to pay $0 Security Deposits and no more than $3500 drive-off. I would prefer to lease to be right around $500/mo and, based on what I’ve been calculating, it seems easily doable (zip code 36832).

https://www.bmwusa.com/build-your-own.iframe.html#/studio/ecka1a39/summary

I have a few big questions for getting started:

  • How should I approach dealership client advisors? I understand that there are forums and I’ve been reading through them.
  • Is my deal reasonable?
  • Are there any tips for communicating?

I’m open to answering questions and I’m hoping to learn from this and secure a deal by the end of the year. If I have left out any important information, please let me know.

Thank you all in advance.

LH Calculator below:

Post a link to your LH calculator

Btw does it have to be custom?

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You should be able to get one without any down payment, which is not recommend on a lease car anyway.

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I just got this back from a dealership offer for a 2021 BMW 330i xDrive Build, 36m/10k mi lease deal. I think this is a little high, but I’m trying to break down the deal and see what a potential counter-offer might be and where to go from here. I’m also waiting to hear back from some other dealerships, but just for the future what would be the next step to ask here?

Here is the image: DEAL

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated for breaking down this sort of worksheet.

Here is the leasehack calculator that I was using:

I’m assuming your incentives are Lease Cash and Loyalty, both of which are taxable. Try to push for 10% or more off pre incentive since that’s what most deals on here have.

Agree. I just got an X3 with 10.5% off sticker, in addition to loyalty and lease cash. When talking with them about doing a custom to replace my other BMW, they suggested doing it near the end of December and taking advantage of all of the incentives and pricing for the end of the year (my lease expires in April).

@JcE @mdd @shorthian @max_g Thanks for the replies. I’m currently available for loyalty and grad that I know of (I need to check what exactly was put on here). I’m really trying to knock down the MSRP as you mentioned above and then get into the details (MF, incentives). This is what I was thinking of replying with–please let me know what you guys think on how I could phrase a response to this.

Here’s my proposed email (I have not sent it yet):


[Name],

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I’ve had a chance to review the worksheet and I would like to see the specifics as to how you’re getting to that price.

I would like to add that I’m planning to pay all fees upfront. I’m hoping to negotiate a sales price closer to $46,000 before incentives to fit into my price range, but I’m willing to see how we can work this out.

I’m looking forward to hearing back from you.


I also just got another quote from another dealer and…terrible (QUOTE). I responded to this one straight up saying this is out of my price range and that I was thinking $46,000 pre-incentives and asked for a breakdown on how he was getting that price. I don’t want to come across as pompous, but that one is just laughably high.

Here was another quote…also high (QUOTE)

Next steps?

I wouldn’t recommend trying to piece part this. Someone may agree to your selling price based on a presumed marked up mf, etc.

Don’t waste people’s time. Just say “here is my offer on this vehicle. If you agree, I’ll be there in X hours to sign paperwork and place a deposit.”

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@mllcb42 Thanks for this response. What all should I include in an offer? For example, would this be OK:

~$500/month, no more than $530/month
$1000 down
All fees paid upfront

Things are going to be a little different because you’re talking about an order where the programs may vary between now and when the vehicle comes in.

I’d just say 10%(or whatever your target percent is) off before incentives, buy rate mf, no add ons.

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@mllcb42 I understand, so maybe something along the lines of:


[Name],

I’ve had a chance to review your pricing worksheet. I am looking to negotiate 10% off MSRP before incentives, buy rate MF, and no add ons.

If we can agree on this, I’m ready to move forward and begin signing and put down a deposit.


I’m a bit cautious about wording, but what are your thoughts on a response along these lines?

I believe with BMW, if you order, they will apply the current incentives at the time you take delivery. At least, that is what I was told by two different dealers at different times. So, based on that, I would just ask for 10% off sticker plus your incentives and tell them you will do drive offs separately. You can always change your mind and roll some of the drive offs into the price at the time you write the check.

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By current, I mean they will apply today’s incentives at the time you get your vehicle, even if they are no longer current.

@mdd could you elaborate on your statement about doing drive offs separately? I understand now that telling people deals up front is a good approach, but I’m not sure how much to push without making the dealer just say screw it and walk off.

Just to be clear, say I want 10% off MSRP before incentives and then work from there? One dealer said 6000 off was very aggressive…

I would like to respond to the dealer that sent me THIS tomorrow since this is the lowest offer. I’m hoping to lower their offer more and then present it to the other dealerships and see what I can get. I’m worried that just saying 10% off MSRP, buy rate MF, and no add ons may turn them away if I’m not careful.

They can do the ones at the time of ordering but I believe they can also do the programs at the time of delivery. I wouldn’t want to lock myself into one if the other is more favorable. Leaving it open ended but focusing on the critical details keeps things flexible.

I think that is how it works. At least, as I recall, they told me if the current incentives are better, they would go with those. Having never done a build, I am not 100% sure.

I just meant that it is easier to talk about the price of the car, the discount, and the incentives to get the resulting payment. If you leave drive offs (tax on incentives, acquisition, title, etc) separate, you can get those itemized. Then you can shop this deal to other places. Once you pick a deal, you can change what gets rolled into the payment.

Alternatively, some people like to do the opposite – they roll everything into the monthly and get dealers to compete. But I find that a little less transparent.

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I think you can do better than that offer for sure. Like someone else mentioned - I present my offer stating exactly what I want line by line and see where we can go from there. Sounds like this one might be a local dealership? If so, I think it helps to get face to face and present your offer.

Would something like this be acceptable in terms of presenting my offer or should I maybe say that I would like to see their best offer given that this is what I want? Maybe I’m overthinking it.

Yeah that is fine. I like to list out the incentives and base MF as well so they know that I know what I am talking about.

I personally don’t ask for their best offer. Don’t really like the idea of asking them how much they want me to pay. But yeah, don’t overthink it. And be open to hopping on the phone or showing face. I think it helps a ton.

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