Living in Dutchess Cnty NY- Any lease deals?

Hello I live in Dutchess County NY 12603 and have around 790 credit with no bads. I am interested in a high MPG car possibly a hybrid if I can swing it. Is there anything out there for me ? It’s not urgent but my friend wants to by my car.

If not a hybrid then a manual for SURE

Sorry if I mis-posted this…

That’s not really how this forum works. When someone signs a deal, they’ll usually post it, not hold on to it until someone asks.

Name a specific make, model, and term that you are looking for and you might get more help.

restating. I have a current BMW that I own that is a gas hog and my buddy wants to buy it.
So I’m looking for a lease on a new car. Hybrid or good on gas, pref manual but not a deal breaker
Around Dutchess county NY.

Term can be 3 years. I work from home so I barely drive as it is.

edit ok I found a car I am looking at.

Please advise. Sorry for the original mis post

You’re not going to get any replies. You’re essentially asking people to shop for you and that’s not what this place is about. Figure out exactly what you want, call or e-mail to get numbers and then do the math with the calculator listed above or post here to check to see what you should do/if you can get a better deal.

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ok I’m going to the dealer now, I’ll come back and run my numbers through the calc and lets see whats what

update- Wow - the dealer like new NOTHING about this car and "oh sorry thats in stock in a different location.
She didnt know jack about rebates either… I’m sorta lost?

You should just contact a broker like @nyclife. That would be much easier for you considering that it seems like you are extremely lost and probably haven’t read much on here and possibly expect people to spoonfeed you information

Thanks. I have a small learning disability but thanks to sassy contributors I’m sure get through it …

Listen do not take it for wrong. Spend a few hours going over forum and such. Search edmunds forums as well. Its best if you learn some basic concepts. You will be best for it. Then you will not be taken for a ride. Autobytel.com has most incentives listed. Truecar.com as well. Line up some deals and we can discuss them here. I got a jeep grand cherokee at .89% of msrp with everything rolled in. Other people have gotten better deals on other cars. However, again it took time and hussle to get at a great price. I am trying to get the same thing for my wifes lease coming up but cannot hit that mark again. All depends on dealers, timing, and your charm.

I’m in NJ I posted this for a lexus deal.

It’s simple. Go into the dealer. They will ask you how much a month you’re willing to pay with the 4 squares paper. Tell them you are negotiating sales price first not monthlies. You should have a ballpark range from edmunds, nadaguides, and truecar. You’re aiming for below those numbers. It’s literally whatever you FEEL you are comfortable paying. There’s no scientific number that I have access to. The dealer knows how much he got the car for but nobody else does.

You should also know the incentives. Autobytel has those numbers. Don’t tell them about any certificates and recent grad/takata that you have. You’re negotiating solely on what the dealer is willing to give you not corporate right now.

Once YOU’RE satisfied with the selling price, then negotiate monthly payments WITHOUT changing the selling price. This includes MSDs. You will now negotiate MSD payments. This should be a straight up math calculation. You should know the MF and residuals so do the math yourself or ask for help here. They will also add fees. Be aware of the fees to the gross/net cap cost.

Come back here with these numbers.

MSRP of the car you want: (Window Sticker Price)
Selling price of the car (your negotiated price of the car)
Gross cap cost of the car (this is the selling price + all bullshit fees taxes etc)
Cap cost reductions (Money Down)
Money Factor (MF)
Residual (in %)
Term of your lease (months)
Mileage allotment (7.5K/10K/12K/15K…etc)
Please also ask on edmunds what the base MF and residual are.
If you are unsure of how to do this:

Google [Model Year] [Manufacturer] [Model] [Lease Edmunds]
For example 2017 Lexus ES350 Lease Edmunds

Make an account on edmunds using 10minutemail if you don’t want spam.

  1. Post your State, Mileage Allotment, Incentives, and Lease Term on that forum and wait for MF, incentives, and residual numbers.

Then once you come back here with the numbers someone will hopefully do an evaluation and then go back to the dealer.

SLAM down the certificates and recent grad/ takata.

There you go.
@drcraige I made some edits

Thanks i’ll do my best and come back here.
PS do most ppl go with 10k?

Try to calculate how many miles you drive per year and use that to decide.

I happened to have a monitoring device in my car from my insurance company, so I just used that to look up exactly how many miles I’d driven in the previous year.

I work from home.
I’m going to get the edmunds Chevy contact # to give me the calc numbers.
BTW the saleman told me if it were HIM he would go with a 2 year 15k versus a 3 year 10k.

That made no sense. What is he on?

Of course the dealer wants to push 24mo. It means you need another new car in 2 years instead of 3. Short term leasing increases the trade cycle and thus new car sales volume and dealer profits.

24mo leasing is a very short sighted strategy and is actually toxic for the overall leasing industry and in the long run will make leasing more expensive. In order to get a low payment on 24mo, the RV has to be much higher than real 2yo prices so nearly every 24mo lease written is a huge loss for the lender on the backside. When those losses start piling up, the lender will get much tighter on RVs for all terms.

ok TY.I will stear clear of 2 year then especially since I work from home (for now) I don’t need 15k…
I go to get the numbers later today … assuming I have time.

I’m trying to decide on the Volt (poor mans Tesla) or the Bolt (nerdy and jetson like)

Ok well that didnt work so far but here is what I have

“The adjusted cap cost is the selling price of the vehicle minus the rebates and whichever down payment you choose. According to the pencil report you provided, prior to the down payment the adjusted cap cost is $25,764. If you put $1000 down that changes it to $24764 and so on depending on how much you want to put down.”

usually i have to go into the dealer to show that i’m serious before they get serious…