Mother of god, that 4th year RV drop is a monster!
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Stick on the car is $46974 and the offer is $42549.
I got them to throw in $2500 “lease cash” and give me $900 in pos equity on old lease (and they’ll fix a few dents for free) but the payment is still $529. (8.25% tax in TX).
Am I close?
Does the $42549 number include the $2500 in lease cash (btw, lease cash is a rebate offered to everyone, they didn’t throw anything in for you).
Are you saying they’re very hot right now because that’s what the dealer told you?
I asked about the lease cash (it was never mentioned before) and they “threw that in” to get to the new number. Below is the original offer that got me the numbers everyone said was crazy in my original post. I told them I wouldn’t pay that MF, and then they threw in $2500 lease cash and the post eq. on the ending lease to get to $529.
My suggestion is to start over here.
Go to edmunds and find out what the mf, residual and incentives should actually be for your zip code.
Get an independent estimate on your currently leased car. What kind of car is it? Get a quote from carvana, carmax, vroom, and shift. Find out how much equity is actually in the car.
With that info, you have a solid baseline to start shopping with. You can evaluate any deal with all the information needed to accurately judge it. Right now, they’re juggling stuff around. They weren’t suddenly able to offer you $2500 in lease cash (unless you originally spoke to them in June and the incentives now drastically changed in July). Instead, they were pocketing the rebate.
Go into any deal with as much information as you can.
I have the residuals from Edmunds (they are written on the page, 55% and 45%). Edmunds mod quoted .00025 af MF so I told dealer I would only pay .0003. $2500 dealer cash also quoted on Edmunds. Didn’t get it until I asked the after the offer above. That plus equity in car (had it appraised, with dings we got about about $1000, dealer matched). brought it to $529. But I don’t know if they are playing math games or I am miscalculating or I should shoot for a lower price. Edmunds invoice is 41200.
Why would you offer to the dealer to pay an inflated MF?
You need to negotiate the new vehicle and the old lease separately. What they’re likely doing now is on paper showing $1000 in equity, but then making the money back up in the amount of discount that they’re giving you.
Instead, negotiate the deal on the new car and then at the end tell them you’ve got your old lease and if they can beat the $1000 more than payoff offer you currently have, you’ll also sell them the car. Right now, the two are muddying each other up.
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And @Fritz_Schnauzer should just stop considering a 4-year lease already. The residual is ridiculous, aside frokt anything else bad about a lease that long.
I guess my question here is: where do I squeeze more out of them? Is the sale price of the car too high? I’ve got the MF down, the residuals are set by the bank, and they threw in the $2500 lease cash (albeit late) and pos equity on the car that we’ve had evaluated and think is fine (CarMax isn’t going to give us more).
It’s hard to tell for sure as they aren’t being complete transparent on their numbers. When I plug their numbers into the leasehackr calculator, I get very different numbers.
That’s $492 a month with $0 DAS (your trade in not included) based on their numbers.
Instead, if you were talk them down to a 12% discount, do the 36 month lease instead with the correct MF, and use your $1000 equity towards MSDs, you’d be at this
$455 a month, $0 out of pocket, and you’d get your money from your trade in back at the end of the lease
Hell, you could not negotiate the amount any further at all and give them the extra MF but put your $500 in down payment and $1000 in trade in equity towards MSDs and be here at $490 a month and get your $1500 back at the end:
The question that really needs answered is what is the disparity in the numbers from?
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Shop around they are giving you bad deal.
I seen 2k out of pocket $400 tax included for f sport model here in SoCal