Is there a basic guide somewhere on dealer fees beyond price, what you should challenge on a given dealer offer. This seems to be the place where chicanery is more likely. (could not find thru forum search) Is this state specific (I’m in Oregon).
Also if you’re considering both leasing and buying should the dealer know this up front, i.e., is one of more advantage to the dealer such that they’ll push in that direction?
Thanks all.
There’s a guide here calling Leasing 101
This seems like a very time-wasting strategy… the good old haggle. But even worse because you want to haggle line by line?
You should know what your target for total cost is. How that gets allocated on the line items shouldn’t be a main focus
Do you really care if they sell you the car for $0 but have a $31,000 dealer fee vs selling you the car for $31,000 with a 0 dealer fee?
I could have phrased this differently. What would be good to know is which fees are hard (not negotiable) and which are soft, dealer discretionary.
Depends on the state, but the key is
That’s it, anything else you are thinking of is depends on the state and most are not negotiable.
Again, it doesn’t matter.
What is the make, model and trim? And what’s your target for the total cost?
I’m in southern Oregon and am a bit closer to Redding CA than cities on the west Oregon corridor.
I’m trying to get a sense of out of state leasing, specifically if there are extra fees and if going out of state is generally not advised.
Thanks everyone.
Please keep all your current questions to one thread.
Once again, the line item breakdown is nowhere near as important as TCO (total cost)
After paying for shipping and/or broker fees, is your TCO less than what you’ve found locally?
I’ve done about 1/3 of leases out of state, it depends.
As your post gets-at, the Dealer Doc fee can vary widely in the US, and in some states can be marked up. CA caps it at $85. When I still lived in VA, I ended up leasing a car in MD because it was the only one I could find in that combination, and the doc fee was stupidly more expensive, but the rest of the deal was the same. I needed a car and it wasn’t worth waiting or searching further to save a few hundred bucks.
Looking at a master list of states and doc fees is not as useful as you think. Figure out what you want, where it might come from, and then see what’s different about doc fees there.
Also many many posts here about PNW dealers not dealing - search for those.
Super Supporters with access to SIGNED! can see actual deals with these broken down, so compare a popular car deal made in different states you are targeting and see. Likewise, many Signed! Posts here (searchable) show that breakdown.
If you know exactly what you want, put together a target lease deal and start making offers to dealers.
This is not directed at you, but more of a general comment. It seems like people don’t search because they think the question that they’re asking has a timeliness bias. For this month’s incentives and discounts, no question. For most other lease-related questions, the “right” answer is here if you search. Not to discourage anyone from asking, but spend the same amount of time searching first and see what you learn.
If I lease from a dealer out of area – say 200 miles – does the dealer have the ability to credit the drive home before the 12K limit starts? I’m guessing this is another thing I can negotiate.
No, unless they are willing to deliver it on a truck.
Is your 3yr usage going to be exactly 36,000 miles that you can’t imagine driving only 35,800 miles after driving it home?
Or if the bank charges you $.25/mile for going over by ~200 miles for driving it home, that’s on you. Presumably you chose that deal because, again, the TCO was lower than whatever was available locally. Regardless of your reasons, nobody’s putting a gun to your head. Don’t drive home 200 miles grumbling about being charged for it.
If you’re projecting the same overthinking persona in real life, a lot of people are not going to sell to you.
Sounds like a lot of effort on their part, just to have a fairly plausible outcome of being destroyed on a survey or review.
*and added the freight cost into the deal
Is there a way to adjust for MSDs in the calculator?
On a listed 26,985 Mazda CX-30 I had a dealer response base payment with no money down is about $485 a month. Mazda will allow you to discount the money factor by .00008 per monthly payment rounded up to the next $25 increment as refundable deposit at lease inception. This works out to $500 per deposit up to nine total deposits. One five $500 deposit drops your payment about three dollars. $4,500 in deposit discounts the monthly payment about $28 per month.
Am I wrong in expecting a four grand deposit to reduce the monthly payment more?
no. If you are really sweating the, lets do this math together now,
200 miles @ $0.25/mile = $50 then you can’t afford the car
Yes. Did you even scroll down the calculator?
Yes but didn’t locate it.
But I have concluded there are other less trollish sources for me to consult. I’ll close this thread now.
Around minute 3 in the video you’ll see where on calculator to check MSDs and how many
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