Yes. I inputted the exact VIN yet the RV is higher and the MF is higher.
I put zip code of both and got the exact same numbers.
I tested this for KIA too and the same issue.
Maybe I misunderstanding how to use this information on RateFindr. Is it not supposed to be the exact numbers the dealership has?
The RV isn’t negotiable, so that should be the same (identical year, model, trim, miles).
RateFindr will return buy rate MF, which is why I asked about whether Nissan allows dealers to mark up.
I would think someone more familiar with Nissan should see that question and comment soon.
Dealerships won’t always quote you the captive financial co.
Maybe they’re quoting you a USB, Ally or CU lease.
Yes this is possible it’s a CU.
So the credit union is neither a subvented or non-subvented lease?
Is there a reason they wont use the captive lender?
I just want clarity. If the numbers on Leasehackr should be what the dealers are giving me when it comes to RV% and MF. If not, then why not?
We should rule in/out any database errors that RateFindr is pulling. So we need to know which lessor this dealership is quoting.
More commission, for starters.
I can tell you right now thay the RV given to me by the dealer is different than the RV given on the Ratefindr
@KiaFan Re RV: Dealers can’t mark up RV. If the dealer is structuring the deal through a non-captive lender, Rate Findr numbers won’t match since Rate Findr only pulls captive lender numbers (both subvented and non-subvented programs refer to captive programs).
If the dealer is offering captive program and the RV is still different from that of Rate Findr, then either the dealer or RF’s number is wrong.
Re MF: many captive programs allow dealers to mark up the MF. That said, sometimes it may not be worth it to insist on buy rate as long as the discount off MSRP is good (dealers move their profit- or loss- center around at times). Ultimately, you are assessing the total cost of leasing. Knowing the buy rate MF helps you structure a target lease payment more intelligently, but it’s not in itself a mean to an end.
Hope this helps!
This is GREAT information and what I was looking for. They were trying to do the deal via a credit union which obviously is not a captive lender. So this explains why the numbers do not match.
They said to me they cannot go through the captive lender because it would require more money down. Is this true? Does a bank/program indicate more money down is needed in order to use the captive lender? Or is this dealer BS?
Do you mean they would require more money down for the same monthly payment? Yes, that can be true. They maybe be doing with the CU since their programs might be better than the captive.
No. More money down in order to go from a CU to the captive lender and that my price would go up as well since we are going from 39 to 36 months!
Either the programs are worse (you need to do the math) or they want to be compensated for a lower commission.
You need to start a new thread in Ask the Hackrs because it’s obvious it’s not a RateFindr issue and you need to start at the beginning: have you identified a car that’s ripe for hacking? If so, what’s your target deal?