Lease swap advice Audi Q4 etron

Ask the Hackrs
1

Hey all —

Local dealership called me up offering to swap me out of my current lease early (2024 Q4 e-tron: $499/mo, 24/10k, $4,500 MSD, MSRP $61,190 — ends Nov 2025, todays buyout $34808.86, and I am at 16k miles).

I’m now comparing a few new 24-month / 12k mi per year leases, all $0 DAS, rollover current MSD Audi refund the difference, and I’d love your input on the best deal. I bike a lot, so a hitch is preferred — but not a dealbreaker.

Here’s what I’ve got on the table:

  • $325/mo, MSRP $58,090, $3,100 MSD, RWD 45, with hitch
  • $335/mo, MSRP $60,340, $3,500 MSD, Quattro 55, no hitch, but dealer will include roof racks
  • $349/mo, MSRP $62,935, $3,500 MSD, Sportback Quattro 55 Premium, with hitch

I’m looking to wrap something up this weekend if possible. That said, since the EV tax credits sunset end of September, do you think better pricing or incentives are coming, or is now a good time to lock something in?

Appreciate any insight — red flags, favorites, or thoughts on where things might head in the next few months.

Thanks in advance!

2

For folks to properly evaluate, you’ll want to provide

  1. payoff on current car and miles to understand equity situation

  2. reconstructing each offer in a LH calculator in order to separate Discount, incentives/rebates, equity, etc.

This is the only way to understand how much better you can do elsewhere or from brokers.

3

I don’t believe there is an official pull ahead so your remaining payments are going somewhere. You should be comparing what they are offering you to what you could get on a standalone deal. Also make sure you confirm what happens to your existing MSDs (incase they are buying the vehicle out vs grounding it).

4

This strikes me as a “good” deal. I am sure you can find slightly better but is it worth your time/energy? If you have a good relationship with the dealership and/or like the salesperson this is a perfectly fine deal.

5

The dealer is doing you no favor here and is not approaching you out of the goodness of their heart, but is simply trying to move metal at your expense.

As was said, do the math and then look at the broker deals on here (at the same trim level and miles). MSDs will also skew your numbers compared to your current lease.

Forget about the roof rack and hitch nonsense as that will cloud the numbers and your judgment because nothing is free and that includes your remaining payments to AFS.

Analyze the deal from bottom to top and then make the call.

6

This is a good point. If the hitch or roof racks didn’t come from the factory (on the window sticker options) they are not residualized.

7

Do the lease quotes include putting down the difference in MSDs between the old and new deals?

The simplest way to do this is look at what a new lease would cost without all the buyout details. That will tell you if any of the existing lease payments are being rolled into the new deal.

On the face of it, this looks like a good deal. You are getting a new vehicle for $150 a month less than your current lease which does not look like a good deal to begin with.

8

On the surface, looks like a good deal compared to OP’s existing deal. But is the deal a good deal now, as it stand alone today? Does OP even care?
:man_shrugging:t2: just need to do the math and compare with what’s in the Marketplace

9

Yes, but $150 less per month over a deal that was not good to begin with while a savings nonetheless does not make the new deal “good” without knowing more.

If the first deal wasn’t good for you (but was good for the dealer) is it a surprise that dealer has come back you with another “deal” now?

10

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