Things I am already planning on asking my dealer are:
What is the annual mileage allowance?
What is the MF and am I getting the buy-rate?
Is the acquisition fee being marked up?
Other than general feedback, I’d also really appreciate some specific help from the community on the following:
I don’t see any taxes on here? Presumably there should be, right?
How do I know if the rebates and savings are taxed or untaxed? As in, where do I plug them into the Leasehackr calculator?
The selling price of the car, after total savings and rebate are deducted, is $67,185. I’m not sure I understand how that price relates to the Adjusted Cap Cost of $71,326.85 or the Gross Cap Cost of $81,765. Does anyone understand this please?
It’s not clear to me what the relationship is between the Gross Cap Cost and the Adjusted Cap Cost. Can anyone explain please?
Whats the Car? You decide the terms that you want aka how many months/mileage (within the parameters of the program being provided)
To know the MF/RV-ask on edmunds for free or become a supporter of the website and get that info .
acquisition fee can be marked up-depends on brand of vehicle. impossible to know without knowing what vehicle is being talked about here
5.8% discount pre-incentive-again, whats the car? How does it compare to what you see being offered via brokers/dealers on the Marketplace.
Question to ask the dealer regarding taxes-I assume the payment shown is with taxes.
I have no idea how California taxes so can’t say anything regarding rebates being taxed or not.
I would recommended reading Leasing 101 as it will help you understand gross cap cost/adjusted. Gross is basically (MSPR-discount)+ fees vs adjusted (MSRP-discount-incentives)+fees.
My bad - sorry. It’s a fully loaded Dodge Charger Daytona Scat Pack.
Thanks - I am a supporter and have used Rate Finder by plugging in my VIN. Is it absolutely the case that the MF on Rate Finder (which seems to be a very good 0.00005) is 100% of the time the same as the MF the dealer is offering? Again, maybe a novice question, but how would I know if he’s marking it up? Is that a reverse math question where I have to take the monthly payment and back into the interest rate/MF based on the cap cost?
Answered in the other reply too, but it’s a Dodge Charger Daytona Scat Pack. Also answered the question about MF available via Rate Calculator, which was 0.00005, but I’m not sure how to know whether that’s the same as the MF the dealer is offering, or if he’s marking it up.
Dodge Charger Daytona Scat Pack.
I may not be searching correctly but I haven’t seen m/any threads covering lease deals for new Charger Daytonas.
Just to add, what is confusing me is the numbers don’t make sense if I use this Edmunds approach to calculate monthly payments.
For example, if I use the fees listed in the quote, and I add them to the negotiated selling price, they don’t come out to the same Gross Cap Cost as listed in the quote.
And, if I use the total saving and rebates listed in the quote and deduct them from Gross Cap Cost (either the one in his quote or what it should actually be based on the Edmunds formula), they don’t come out to the same Adjusted Cap Cost as listed in the quote.
I think I’m just going to ask the dealer to send me a full quote with all rebates, incentives, fees and taxes listed out.
This vehicle just came out and while dealerships are dropping the price to help move units, there isn’t a crazy lease incentive on them honestly. If you want TV-look at the EQS deals or demo i4 models or even lease-transfer and see if anything of interest there.
-what are the terms btw? months and mileage?
-try to put your numbers into the calculator here and see what you get.
as @mllcb42 has stated, put together your own offer-a dealer will 99% never give an offer that is selfless.
QQ: is the rate that is shown in Rate Calculator always the buy rate / the lowest rate? In other words, if I go back to him and say “Leashackr says the MF on this car is 0.00005 - you have to match that” is that the right approach?
I have been unable to find anything on Leasehackr about this car other than an infamous thread with a fellow Daytona Forum member, which I already knew about and isn’t apples to apples to my situation.
I do recognize that this is a constraining factor on my ability to negotiate/shop around, but I have already firmly set my mind on this car. I just don’t want to buy it because of concerns about depreciation, evolving technology, I might want to change it in a few years (maybe to the Banshee!), etc. So I’m just trying to find the best lease structure.
See my other response, but I am firmly set on this car. I’ve already researched and dismissed other EVs for different reasons.
I have used the calculator here and have told the dealer that I’m expecting the same MF.
I was able to back into the fact that his quote was based on 15k miles, which is more than I need and ended up driving the RV down to 47%. I’m looking at 36 months for 10k miles or $12k miles, which should both be 0.00005 MF and 50% and 49% RV respectively.
I feel like I’ve already done a reasonable job negotiating selling price and locking in available rebates, so now it’s just about using that as the platform from which to structure the lease.
never mention leasehackr or edmunds. you’re just giving the dealer the opportunity to say “don’t believe everything you see on the internet” and digging in their heels on a jacked-up mf.
take everything you know using the information that’s available to you and come up with a target deal you’re satisfied with. you can spell it out line by line (more work, higher chance for error) or just name a payment using the same data. either the dealer will match it, come close, or none of the above. if none of the above: move on to a different dealer.
He doesn’t have to match it and it doesn’t matter if he does.
If you establish your offer based on buy rate, and they agree to your offer, it doesn’t matter if they mark the money factor up to get to your numbers.
Check out Koons in VA. They are offering $9500 off on Scat Pack EV with affiliate pricing/tread lightly. $9000 without affiliate. They have a post on hellcat.org.
I would continue to shop (across country) for a better discount off MSRP. I beleive the EV Charger will end up being one of the most hackable cars in history! I know it is hard to delay gratification, but I would continue to shop while waiting for the bottom to fall out of the Charger EV. I feel like Dodge is going to have to move these top of the line Scats at something closer to $500/$600 a month.The only catch to waiting, is trying to figure out what will happen with the EV tax credit in the future???
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