Hi! I have Been using family’s car, saving and making decent income.
I went to two dealerships this weekend. I am looking to lease or potentially buying 3 row seaters car if its better deal. I like these two cars with pro and cons. But i am all about the numbers too. Here are both the breakdowns.
Mercedes 2023 GLB 250 Front wheel drive
Msrp 48800
Discount 500
Sales price 48300
Tax 311.02
Tag title 591.50
Pre delivery fee 799
Total 51.096
Cash down 8000
Monthly lease 651$ 36/12k annual
Acura 2023 base Front wheel drive
Msrp 50745
Tax 395.95
Tag title 591.50
Delivery charge 799
Cash down 8000
Monthly lease 683$ 36/15k annual
Both they didn’t run my credit score. But it’s 750
Co sign my husband 738
Leasehackr score 5-5.3
Between two cars I like Mercedes it’s perfect size even though smaller. But is it a good deal? I will use mainly for business leasing probably better choice for tax purposes.
I read most signed and seems like everyone doesn’t put a lot of money up front and still get lower monthly payment. How to get lower payment and don’t have to put a lot on DP?
I’d go for something like the Q4 E-Tron for that same price (Check out the Marketplace) but most importantly, it’ll save you money if you familiarize yourself more with the leasing basics found on the next post after me.
In the last 8 months, I have drove Lexus, Toyota, and Nissan (family’s cars)
But 6 years in passenger seats of Mercedes and Range rover with a driver from work.
This is going to be my first time owning a car
Just started driving this year
I don’t know anything about car.
Acura drives smoother
Mercedes with class and everything still wins my heart
I just want to know if this is a great deal based on what i put down first and monthly payment?
Or dealership just trying to steal my money because I don’t know much
One should never talk numbers with a dealership without knowing what they should be first.
Right now youre trying to decide between two vehicles from a value perspective based on what two random dealers told you they want you to pay, rather than what the actual cost should be.
If those are two vehicles of interest, step back and do the research before ever talking to a dealer about pricing. Theyre just going to muddy up the comparison.
I have researched the price on edmunds that I assumed its where you going to look the MSRP price before we go to see them. And what they gave me basically 1-2k different and that’s because i add more features than the one on Edmund.
About the cash down price, it’s on their Merc website 4500 signing fee with 519$ monthly with base 38k MSRP and with everything extra i add it’s 48K
I did read and that’s why i am here since i know this is not a great deal even though that’s the car i like.
I just don’t know yet how to negotiate since this is my first time.
I have researched the price on edmunds that I assumed its where you going to look the MSRP price before we go to see them. And what they gave me basically 1-2k different and that’s because i add more features than the one on Edmund.
About the cash down price, it’s on their Merc website 4500 signing fee with 519$ monthly with base 38k MSRP and with everything extra i add it’s 48K
I did read and that’s why i am here since i know this is not a great deal even though that’s the car i like.
I just don’t know yet how to negotiate since this is my first time.
Thank you for your suggestion. This forum already helped me
No, the GLB is literally MB’s version of a Tiguan (right down to the useless 3rd row).
The GLC is MB’s competitor for the RDX.
Is there a reason why you want a 3-row SUV? If you actually need that 3rd row, I would suggest you get something that has a useable 3rd row.
These are both utterly horrific deals. I would suggest that you use the search function here and look up broker deals to get a sense of what a solid deal is like for these cars. And, while I normally am not for/against down payments on lease, I would really strongly re-consider putting $8K down.
I’ve not checked closely myself, but do be aware that w/ smaller SUVs w/ a 3rd row (like the GLB and Tiguan), the folded 3rd row cuts a lot into cargo capacity (IIRC). So you’ll want to decide which one is more important to you.
When i say you need to know the price, i mean you should know what the monthly/das should be, for.the specific vehicle youre looking at, based on the current lease programs as they apply to you and what the market is supporting as far as sales price goes.
The dealer is not the source of that information. They will tell you what they want you to pay. You need to figure out what you should pay for an aggressive, yet plausible, deal. You cant effectively negotiate if you dont even know where youre trying to get to.
The advertised deal from mb is not what it appears to be and isnt worth anything anyway. If you want to use it as a comparison point, you need to work out what the advertised deal actually is by you factor in the giant asterisk of not included costs.
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, you’ll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
Read Leasing 101 to understand how to calculate a lease payment and the variables. Monthly payment is an output, not an input!! While you’re at it, be sure to watch the LH video to brush up on how to most efficiently use the resources here.
Pick a specific vehicle that you want to target
Gather the current MF, RV and incentives from the LH Calculator - Lease Program Lookup or Edmunds forums for your zip code
Research the LH marketplace and other deals that have been made recently on your vehicle - what was their pre-incentive discount? How did their lease terms differ?
Plug your numbers into the LH calculator, and use a pre-incentive discount similar to what you have seen
Create a target deal, this is what you’re trying to negotiate to. You can try different terms, selling price discount, etc. and see how your monthly payment is affected. It is also possible that different trims of your vehicle may have different MF and RV (i.e. this is very common with GM), so make sure that you look into that. Come up with a set of inputs that give you the output that you want - your desired monthly payment.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
When you see LH score in the 5 range it’s typically an awful deal. I wouldn’t consider anything below 7. If you are looking for an okay deal on a German suv take a look at the Q5 deal @DonnyAudi posted yesterday.
a 48k GLB is "ok"ly equipped, I would skip the base MDX and go with the GLB if you don’t need the space. They are two class apart though, not just one class apart. If you can get a MDX tech with SH-AWD, that would be a different story.
