Just signed an EV9, here are the details, I think I could have done better, didn’t shop around much.
Msrp: $61k
DAS: $1200
Monthly: $602 including tax
State: Arizona
Discount: 6% off msrp
Rebates: $14500
Term: 48/15k
I will upload the contract. They said they can replicate this deal. Had a couple left in inventory.
Thanks for the data point. Did you mean to put this in Signed Deals & Tips?
Good data point. Interesting they do 48s
What is the trim on this one?
I’m also interested in which trim this was… several dealerships around me are offering $10k “customer cash” but their lease offers are garbage so far.
Example: I just received a 36/12k offer for a GT-line, “market value” $76,780, discounted $13,912 (“selling price” = $62,868), supposed $11,500 rebate noted in the quote sheet… zero down offer was $827.71/month. Just under $30k in payments over 3 years. I’m still learning, but I’d jump at ~$600/month!
Make offers instead of asking for quotes. You need to know how to calculate the payments based on programs as they apply to you.
This is my mantra.
Congrats but I would never do a 48 month lease. I get bored of a car after two years. 36 is absolutely pushing it
How do you identify the parameters for a “good” deal on a specific vehicle? I’m becoming familiar with all of the components, but how does one select the money factor, reasonable percentage discount (I can’t locate typical price paid or invoice price), etc? For example, on the offer I mentioned, how would I know if there is additional room for movement lower than what the dealer offered?
I’m familiar with the 1% rule as a general guide, but beyond that I’m stuck on how to formulate an offer that won’t be overly aggressive/optimistic.
edit: if I need to repost this elsewhere please let me know…
You can look at broker listing’s and signed deals to see what preincentive discounts are obtainable.
Then:
Having current, accurate information for residual value, money factor, and incentives is important in understanding your deal. As such, going directly to a source that has access to that data from the captive banks is your best option.
Rate Findr has that information, as they have direct access to it from the captive banks. It’s a tool on the Leasehackr Calculator, available to Super Supporters.
You can forget everything you’ve heard about this rule as it has been debunked numerous times especially on EV’S. Look at some of the great deals here (not specifically this thread) then add up how much users would have overpaid with 1% as their target.
As a data point, I bought a GT-L end of March. Rough numbers are 77k MSRP, 70k selling price, 12k incentives on a 24/10 lease. With full Texas taxes at 6.25% with first month only due at signing I would have landed at 672 a month. Under 600 (576) if I lived where they tax on the monthly payment.
It’s about the dealer discount really. Hunt them down and you can find a good deal. MF and residual don’t appear to have changed much over last month, if at all.