Ive been gearing up to start making offers on Kia EV9 to my local dealers and searching all the inventory within 150 miles. I even started using the Calculator to try and crunch the numbers and get to my ideal deal points. I found this advertised deal that likely ends TODAY and on the surface seems almost better than I was hoping for? It is not only the trim and colors we want, but has upgrades I was even trying to avoid to keep the cost down. Is this too good to be true? Or turns into an $850/month deal once it closes?
To clarify I was hoping to get this exact model with NO extras (hard to find) but in the blue/brown/gray combo for zero down, only 10k miles and around $750/month. At $3k down and $656/month I am even further ahead unless I am missing something? The $12,700 seems like a low discount, maybe this is a crazy low MF or something?
I think I am forgetting this part:
Excludes tax, title, license, documentation, insurance, dealer prep, registration, acquisition fee, and optional packages or equipment.
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Dealer ads are purposely misleading, I usually tell customers to pretend you didnât even see it
Get an actual hard quote from a salesperson who works there, looking at ads isnt a good use of time or effective
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Here is the actual deal the âmanagerâ put together. He dropped it to 36/10k vs the advertised deal. I would probably ask to drop the $3k down and hit $750 per month. But do I need to expect even more things will drive up the monthly than this? I know I have to pay license, registration and taxes separately (I believe)
Bumping this as looking for some guidance as I close in on my target deal. Based on the offer shown above, I am calculating that this dealer was willing to drop the price 19.2% from MSRP. This particular model has two options I donât want to totalling $3,500 so I found another one closer to me that is a baseline LAND trim with none of the expensive add-ons. Their website already shows a 15% discount on the price so my strategy is to ask them to meet or beat the 19% cost cap reduction and share that my target is 36/10 with 0 down and $750/month (taxes and fees rolled into the payments). But it seems silly to ask them to meet a % discount and also hit montly price targets? I did my best to build the target deal into the calculator here. Can someone confirm I did this right? The Score of 8.8 years could probably be improved but generally a good deal?
Your discount is only 2.6%, not 19%. Doesnât seem that hard for other dealers to beat it.
From the above numbers it looks like the dealer is calling the ârebatesâ as discounts. Those rebates are coming from Kia and were valid till 9/30. New rebates are expected to be coming out this week from Kia.
The typical approach would be to first ask the dealer for a discount off the MSRP - Iâve seen a range from 5%-10% here on the forums. The rebates should apply after those discounts.
If you can wait for a few more days, you might be able to see the new rebate numbers come in and also apply the discounts as needed.
Here is a sample calculator based on some of those assumptions (something you could have gotten till 9/30) -
Discount is what the Dealer wants to give you, Incentive is what the bank will give you. Right now your picture above is 16.5% Incentive, and 2.6% discount. The discount sucks. I know itâs WA, but they really stealing your rebate (incentive)
FYI I have now had two dealers tell me the âKia Cashâ rebates remain effective until the end of October. That appears to my mind to be the $14,700 rebates. And I assumed the remaining was made up as dealer discounts. So I calculated 19.2% simply based on a MSRP of $76,550 and a an cap adjusted selling price of $61,850. With this other vehicle that doesnât have $3,500 of âextrasâ my goal was to get from $72,240 down to roughly $58,000.
I now realize I said Discount but what I really meant was TOTAL REDUCTION (MSRP minus discounts and rebates). So given that error, does the math still work?
It doesâŚin the dealer favor. They can hide a lot under âdiscountâ such as marking up the MSRP or putting in Addons or changing the MFâŚthatâs why you canât just use âDiscountâ as a number.
You could use payment and down such as $600/m with $3000 down, but if you ask for âdiscountâ with all rebates lumped in, you are looking to get ripped off.
Now is $600/m a good deal for an EV land? I donât know as there isnât enough data, but I can say someone in CA got the GT-Line (Top Trim) for $697 / $0 down so your 726/3000 looks pretty bad considering WA gives a rebate on EVs right now. (BTW that was a 5% off MSRP deal)
Ah ok⌠got it! With that, Iâd still suggest trying to push more on the discounts as the current discount seems to be pretty low (2.6%). I feel you can try and push for a 8% discount (as shown in my LH calculator link) and that would be a good deal.
FYI the WA state incentives are for people who make less than $40k per year
Ive been texting with the second dealer in Oregon who agreed to 36/10k $750/month $0 out the door, and $786 for 24/10k. Before I ask for the full paperwork to see how they are arriving at those numbers, I hear that you are all saying it is not a good enough deal (thank you by the way for that). I would love to be south of $700 and just donât have the confidence to keep pushing harder. Butr I guess I have nothing to lose. Maybe I should find a different dealer to pitch an even more aggressive deal? This one agreed to my numbers pretty quickly.
So you donât have the EV rebate? Darn
WA is a tough market (one guy went to Ohio to get his car), but the closer to $700 you can negotiate the better for you.
Ok I think I finally figured out the calculator thing. The dealer came back and mentioned the residual so I was able to back into their âdiscountâ and properly apply the standard Kia incentives ($12,700 still good through 10/31). I think this is the deal they are saying they would make on 24/10k $0 out the door. I am assuming the same money factor as the one quoted me by the first dealer, which matches what the calculator calls âKia US KFA Special Leaseâ (subvented). And yes a small dealer discount of only 2.48% PLUS that manufacturer incentive gets us to the $768 payment. So if I want to get to $700/month, I think I need to reset and try an entirely different dealer, since I already claimed a âtargetâ payment of $750. Or my next tactic would be to start asking for all the free shit I can get, like all season mats, tow hitch. They quoted a lease end protection policy for $1,299 that only covers $2,500 in excess wear a tear. My Audi policy was $962 and covered $10,000! So that is a joke. Any additional tips are welcome, meanwhile I will start reaching out to more dealers.
If you consider the âeffectiveâ rate then I nailed it at $705! But the actual is $736 and I am happy with that. Saves me wasting the rest of this month hunting and negotiating.
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So you started with the ad Deal of 850 + TTL and ended up with $736 with 0 down⌠Very nice
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