I’m shopping for a 2025 CX-5 Carbon Edition, the 3 dealers I’ve been talking to have the specific color combo in stock, and in each case, the cars have been on the lot 90 to 136 days.
Mazda Concord made me the following offer without too much negotiation, and I’d like to do better, specifcially I want more money off the MSRP.
Now, Marin Mazda is advertising a lease special on the specific model I want, but of course, their ad specifies $5000 due at signing, and I’m not willing to do that. I‘ve asked for the lease worksheet but so far they haven’t provided it. I’m trying to decide if Marin Mazda is a better deal overall - the payment would be $399 a month with $2000 due at signing. Thanks in advance for the feedback..
They marked up the money factor by 50 points. Base MF should be 0.00187. Discount is ok at best but could def be better. Ask for 10% off and base MF - if they agree, then take it. Or if you want to save yourself the headache, use a broker
I’m asking 4 dealers to give me their best numbers on a CX-5 Carbon Edition. Most of the dealers only have 1 or 2 of the trim I want in stock, but some of those in stock have been there 90 to 136 days. My 2nd offer this week from a dealer in Vallejo, who came down almost 10% off MSRP and dropped to .00187. I plan to ask the others if they can beat this, but do you think I can do better or should I say yes? TIA.
So, I now have 2 dealers who have lowered the price about 8% and are saying they can’t go more than that. But I can’t get the leasehackr calculator to jive with what they give me. I’m wondering if I’m missing something. The deal they are offering is a vehicle price of 31,500, 1,000 down, 750 rebate, .00187 MF, and fees of 1272.75, with tax of 138.58 for $405.45 per month. Only 1000 due at signing. When I plug in those numbers into the calculator, it shows this, which has a monthly of much less. What am I missing?
So in their worksheet I’m putting $1000 down, AND total DAS is $1750. which more closely matched up with the calculator, but I still show the payment should be closer to $387 a month. In their worksheet, they show my capitalized cost reduction as only 680.81 not the $1000 I’m putting down. Can anyone explain why that would be?
Your post history is baffling. It’s just one unhacked car after another. How are you benefiting from this cycle? Not that you’re unique to this but don’t follow the herd.
As always the usual refrain is “isn’t the entire forum doing this?” The answer is no. Look at the vast majority of posts in Signed Deals & Tips it’s pretty obvious how successive hacked leases are superior to paying the car off. Your candidates all fail that test. Not because of you, but because there’s simply no room in those cars to have generous RV, MF and rebate programs.
I’m not certain how to interpret your comment. I was simply asking how to use the calculator properly as the numbers I come up with a significantly different to the dealers and I’m wondering what I’m missing. So one answer I get is that my posting history is baffling, and the other I get is to change the amount of down payment in my calculator, and I’m asking to understand how that works and why. Isn’t the point of this fourm to help educate people to better negottiate or is it to shame people becuase they have questions?
My suggestion was valid because you didn’t know the difference between down and DAS and didn’t fill calc out correctly…go to the below to educate yourself.
I mean this is confusing…1000 down or 1000 due at signing?! If DAS it just means you pay 1000 and the dealer will use to reduce costs of upfront tax, doc fees, reg fees, etc. and add the rest to cap which the 1000 doesn’t cover…if the down were larger any leftover after paying fees could be applied to an actual down.
If you knew what you were doing you could actually put together a lease payment using the DAS of your choosing.
I am not gonna get into the discussion of what car is hackable and isn’t. My opinion is - you like a car and you WANT to lease it — might as well get the best deal possible. Two things possible, there are some accessories not being disclosed but I doubt it because:
Looks like it’s a 40 basis point rate markup
If you were in SoCal and wanted to avoid the back and forth this would be been my deal, very very close to theirs. If I were you, and you’re dead set on this car, make an offer of buy rate and keep the discount the same. Tell them you will come in and sign today if they can do $1,750 TOTAL at signing including first month for a 36mo lease with 10,000 miles per year for $385/pm including tax.
I appreciate you sending more info on the calculator. However, you assumption that I don’t know the difference between down and DAS is incorrect. What I was trying to understand was why my calc was so off from the dealers. As it turned out the dealer was expecting me to only pay the down but I had already told them I would pay down plus docs and first month. I’m sure you guys get the same questions all day, and that must get tiresome, but being slightly less condescending to people who are asking for help would be much appreciated.
