100 miles!! That’s crazy. My respect to you.
My commute is only like 8 miles round trip. I had a WRX before and it felt smooth to me and it never once bothered me. Though that might be pale in comparison to the STI’s suspension I assume.
it should be a little stiffer than the wrx, I just never trusted small displacement motors with turbos when you start trying to add more power, seen plenty of friends blow up sti’s and evo’s trying to shove 700-800 hp, yeah the corvette was an awful commuter, +1 for people moving out of my way when they heard the loud ass exhaust on their tail though lol.
Ha ha. Honestly I bet a lot of ppl say this, but I like the STI as is. I don’t plan to modify it. I love the WRX when I had it and I loved the STI experience (during test drive). I plan to keep the car for 3 years and then sell instead of turning in the lease. But I plan to keep it stock so I can sell it faster. I live in LA and I don’t need more than what the STI offers tbh.
Only reason why I’m asking is because a test drive is only a glimpse of driving a car and you don’t get the full conditions . When I had the WRX, I never found it cumbersome to drive around the city, I actually loved every aspect about it. I like going on road trips, dirt, etc. I love the rumble of the STI and the feel while driving it in that moment. But I would like to get a sense of how it feels driving it daily since some make it seem so horrible. Someone totaled my WRX 
and as of now I’m skating to work so in my mind I think, what could be more uncomfortable than skating to work? I could be wrong though. I’d rather get a consensus.
What dealer did you buy from. I’m trying to get the same monthly payment 
so far I’ve been offered 544/mo @ 36 months 10k per month no down
Hey there,
I received the STI quote from Subaru of Sherman Oaks from a guy by the name of Zen. I ended up taking both the STI quote and WRX quote and I got slightly a better deal for the WRX in World Rally blue at Subaru Pacific. Mostly it was that they had the Color option in stock. If you have good credit it should be around the same. But IMO I recommend finding out the residual and money factor for the specific model you want. Negotiate the msrp first and then get to the lease payments. That’s what worked for me at least.
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I’m negotiating right now with AV Subaru this is what they offer me as of now on a base STI
36 months @ a money factor .00205 your payment is $536.80 with 0 down cap cost at 36,6xx at 10k miles
And just offered them to lower the cap cost to 34500 we’ll see what happens. My score is 823
How did you negotiate the price first or what cap cost did you ask for?. I asked for the 34500 and they got mad at me and sent me and email from the GM saying thanks for your opportunity and good luck lol
Ask this forum for the market residual value and money factor for the car you want. You will need to be specific in the trim you want (ex. Base, lip,etc), your zip code and miles for the lease term. Just mimic what others on the forum are doing.
Once you get that there’s a formula to calculate monthly payments with the money factor, residual, and negotiated price. It’s very close to what they calculate since it’s something straight from the Automotive Leasing Guide.
You aren’t horiribly off from what I negotiated first but idk if the residual is low now or what’s going on with the money factor and stuff.
Lmk
So far this is the best deal I’ve gotten from Subaru of Ontario. I sent this deal to Sherman oaks to see if they can do better just waiting on a response. Thinking of sending it to Subaru Pacific like you did. How much better of a deal did they get you? I’ll be buying tomorrow
MSRP 39,360
Dropped price 36,000
Residual 65%
Money factor .00205
Tax rate 9.5%
36months 10k miles
477 monthly payments after tax and fees
With 1200 down
Lease trade info:
2017 WRX limited
Miles 28,638
Payoff balance $21138
Ontario offered $21,000
(Av Subaru offered me $21,500)
Is this a base or what trim?
Something is off about those figures.
If the capitalized cost (cost after you’ve given downpayments and received incentives) is $36,000 after you’ve given the 1,200 down. It would be $411 after tax not 477.
It doesn’t seem like you turning in your lease should flucuate the number for your next lease significantly since they’re basically paying almost all of it off.
Did they give you any paperwork for these quotes? Does it say cap cost anywhere on it, if so what’s that number. Just verify the figures are correct because something is definitely up with the number you gave.
I didn’t end up buying the STI but had I pulled the trigger with Sherman Oaks it would’ve been 420 per month after tax for the base STI at $0 down for 36 months 12k miles. I would’ve just paid taxes and registration.
where on edmunds do you find the info you need?
I go on the forums and it just like this, “whats the MF” “is this a good deal”
Google…Subaru WRX residuals…the thread shows as one of the top results.
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I usually search for: “year make model lease deals & pricing”
Eg “2020 subaru sti lease deals & pricing” for me it’s #4 after 2 ads and something from Cars Direct.
I find if I get into Edmunds forums ant where but the exact one I want, it’s way too much clicking to find what I actually want.
Hi I agree with @jeisensc. Just google the year make and model you are looking for. Ex. “2020 Subaru WRX residual”. You then want to look for Edmunds and ask on the forum. You want to be very specific on the trim you want and your zip code. Base manual, base CTV (which is automatic), premium manual , premium CVT.
When leasing there are three things.
MF (money factor which is basically a calculated interest rate) which depends on your credit. Edmundo will give you the most competitive MF in the market. Assuming you have good credit that should be the money factor dealerships give you, if they don’t ask them what is the money factor and they have to be transparent with you if you qualify for the market rate or not. This is non-negotiable and based on credit.
Residual value is the percent of what the Automotive Leasing Guide estimates the car will be worth down the road. The higher the percent the better since your payments will be lower. You can’t negotiate this.
Lastly is the MSRP or the sticker price. Negotiate this first since this will have the most impact on your monthly payments. The consumer is definitely at an advantage right now in these times, ask for a certain price and reach out to several dealerships to get quotes. I find reaching out online and through email worked best for me. That’s how I got the most competitive quote.
Good luck!
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Thank for the info. Really appreciate it
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