Not good in my opinion. The dealer adds need to go, and rolling your trade equity into the deal is a bad idea. I would keep that transaction separate and put that money in the bank.
with the dealer add ons and doc fee you are getting a $457 discount (even though they show $3250). Lots of people posting way better discounts. Are you leasing to turn around and buy it our or are you keeping it full term? If full term you should run the caculator and see how much they are marking up the money factor (that is already pretty high on this model).
This is a terrible deal you should be getting 3-4K off sticker. Some dealers are giving 5k. The addons are making them sell to you at MSRP and the trade in needs to be off the deal.
Aside from all of the other garbage others have mentioned, the doc fee is $699, which may be common in your market but it’s high on a national basis. In CA, for example, it’s capped by statute at $85. In Ohio I commonly see $249.
While generally not negotiable as a line item (you can normalize this with the dealer discount when you make an offer), the doc fee is all extra profit. I paid $799 on the BMW I got in Virginia, but I also got an obscene discount, which isn’t present here.
Is it better to do this:
1- Remove my car from the deal
2- Ask to pay only the dealer fee + Acquisition fee + tax upfront
3- Ask for monthly payment of $400 including everything
How is that deal sounds like for you?
I won’t care much about the MF and RV is that okay?
I don’t know the market for this car, although this is a vehicle that’s had a fair amount of recent discussion, so leverage posts/threads of others here on the forum for best input.
Personally, I’d take a step back, do some more research, and start fresh with another dealer vs. trying to salvage something after this one has packed in a bunch of worthless garbage that claws back most of the discount.
If you have a trade, definitely get multiple offers and see if it makes more sense to sell it separately (do you get a sales tax credit for a trade-in in NC? If so, make sure you factor that in.) This is generally a really easy way to value (and sell) a car.
Personally I wouldn’t sign anything unless I understood all the math, and then I’d set up a target deal and start making offers, vs. soliciting quotes.
The math part can sound daunting, but you’re talking to a relatively new lease customer here (I’ve done two in my entire life, both since I joined LH and got help from all of the fine people here).
Learning the calculator was the best way for me to do this, and while it has a learning curve, if I can figure it out, so can our cat.
This is a real bad deal . If you are looking at lease and buyout, a good deal should be OTD of 40k + taxes . If your state has additional incentives apply that .
If you are looking for pure lease then the monthly should be between 430-450 for a good deal with 0 out the door.
These units are not selling . If you are looking to buy it with financing might be better to scout out of state dealers and get the car shipped to your place . If you want to save money buy a 2022 pro S new . Those are still in stock due to recall issues at some dealers thought quantity is limited . It’s MSRP is 48k and you should be able to get delivery of them by October upon completion of door handle recall and it’s pricing should be 3-4k lower than what I suggested above . OTD of 35k + taxes is possible on that .
This deal is one of the worst I have seen in recent past for an ID4. Sorry for being blunt. Please run away. No point negotiating with this dealer. They want to fleece you.
Please note do not include your trade in anywhere within the above numbers. Once you have arrived at these numbers , do trade in separately .
Pro tip - for lease and buyout always look at OTD pricing . For buyout reach out to multiple dealers with your final price. 1 out 10 will be willing to work at your price provided it’s not super low-ball. This car is good, but overpriced as compared to Tesla in eyes of consumer . So shoot for minimum MSRP reduction of 4k with 0 dealer add Ons on top of 7500 rebate and any state rebate.
Have added my Version of a proposed lease deal for you. This is the most aggressive version and I have taken numbers from your sheet and removed everything else .I have assumed a 39 month lease as it lies in sweet spot from RV and usage perspective and dealer should also be able to work with those numbers.
I contacted other dealer have
2023 VW ID.4 S RWD (value: $45,991)
I asked for:
Discounts 5% to 10%
Incentives: $7500
Lease 36/10 or 39/10 (the less monthly payments)
RV: 56%
Monthly payment: approx $405
Zero due at signing
They replied with:
We agree of everything except the RV not quite 56% that will make the monthly payment $502$ with zero DAS
We are on additional $3,100 away from the payment you are wanting. If you can come up with some money to put down I will try to help with more as well!
Id4 S is not a hugely popular model. Minimum 10% discount should be obtained on that . Your quote of 400 monthly on that with 0 down is a good price.
Higher the RV the better it is. I gave the 56 RV for reference. Btw id4 S MSRP is 45k not 51k . The S model is different than pro S . Hope you are aware of that .
Use this as a base and reach out to 10 dealers in NC with this offer . Say your max is 360 monthly on 39/10 for S model with zero DAS . Never just give a monthly quote . They will bump the initial payment . Go with just this value and let the dealer do the math. They can either do this or counteroffer with an alternate . Choose the one who is a no nonsense dealer with fair pricing .
If time permits send your quote towards the end of this month . They will be more willing to yield due to quota.
