Ok so… I messed up… rookie mistake: Always Google the Vin # and don’t bring a toddler on the day of signing.
MSRP: $50,945
Adjusted Capitalized Cost: $38,680
Miles: 6K
Discount: 27%
Money Factor: 0.00206
Residual Value: 60%
Drive Off: $2,500 (Includes NY Taxes, DMV, Acq, First Payment)
Monthly: $460/mo for 36 months
Mileage Allowance: 12K miles per year
Total 36 Month Cost: $18.6K
Here’s the thing… After all is said and done, paperwork signed today and car is now in my driveway, I decide to Google the vin and see that on their website they were advertising the same car for $350/mo with $3K down for 10K miles – so a 36 month total of $15.3K – approx. $3K less than I’m going to pay in 36 months, or $1K less per year.
EDIT: Dealer replied, the advertisement had $3K down which was not inclusive of taxes, fees, etc. they ran the numbers for me as if I was going to take the advertised deal and I would have to put $6K upfront in order to get the monthly at $350.
Overall, I know I could’ve done better regardless but I did sign on impulse – nonetheless I absolutely love this car and cannot believe that it is as spacious as an X3 (front/rear seats).
I can’t find it on the Lease Agreement but I used a quick MF Calculator – 0.00206 which is equivalent to 4.9% – mind you I have a 670 and I still think its super inflated.
Nah it’s listed as 60 but with mileage accounted for you’re paying 0.25x5500=1375 + 2037.80 (4% residual hit for over 5k) more than if it was new. That’s like 95/month you’re paying more than you thought looking at the residual they gave.
If its within 3 days 300 miles, some states and dealers offer a reconsideration. take it back and ask for a redo. They will NOT CANCEL but might reconsider terns. Not sure if it works but worth trying. I have personally helped a friend a a few years back at an Autonation dealer in FL which os known for the worst, got him out of a used civic and put him in to a brand new accord for a less monthly payment. Has to start politely by speaking to a manager, and then had to get a little heavy lol. Again, worth trying, not a guarantee. Take someone friend or family who is familiar with leasing process and next time, try checking on this forum before yiu jump on signing. Good luck
You should have negotiated over email. Not last minute and not with a toddler present. Don’t give them any leverage (knowing your time is limited = gives them leverage by intentionally wasting it and grinding you down).
You should have also shopped for the best MF. There is no single credit score. 670 at one bureau could be 640 at another and 700 at another. And your auto score could be different. For all we know you could have qualified for .00176 but they marked it up.
I don’t understand the issue. the ad said $3K down. the OP doesn’t say that he put anything down, just drive offs (different). Isn’t it possible that its a similar deal (or even better if one factors in mileage + mf changes) as the advertised deal he thinks is better would have been + the same drive offs he paid.
Aside from that, he shouldn’t have signed anything without thinking about it first. This smells of impulse purchase, which usually never turns out good. Should’ve told the guy “hey, wife and kid come first, we’ll think about it and get back to you,” not “ok, where do I sign so I can get the hell out of here?”
Deal would’ve been better if you had the base MF (.00156) as well as a 24 month term.
Might as well just enjoy the car now. What’s done is done.
This was in Jersey, if the 3 day/300 miles hold true, I will show up in-person tomorrow. I emailed the dealer last night. Will follow up with phone call today.
You’re right. I messed up. I was going there for an X1 deal and then last minute an hour before closing we shifted the deal for the GT given that its A LOT more spacious.
I’ll have to double check how the $2,500 was dispersed but yes it was mostly taxes, fees, DMV and first payment. I’ll get the numbers when I get home. I guess when looking at the ad… I’m assuming the $3K down that they had on the ad is not in addition to Taxes etc., its inclusive of it. So how I see it is, I would pay $500 more down but save $110/month or $1.3K a year on monthlies.
