It’s easy to lose sight of it in these HP wars but a 330i is fairly quick.
I think these are all good suggestions, but thinking outside the box - I don’t know what your budget is, but would it be crazy to think about doing two leases concurrently? You could have a fleet of 2 C300’s on 10k leases (or a BMW and Merc) - go for a white and a black one and then you can switch dependent on your mood 
Not a bad idea but I can only fit 2 vehicles in my driveway. If I could fit a third I probably would be going for a toyota for work and a 911 carrera for the weekends. Hence why I want a sporty luxury vehicle for both.
Double the insurance.
Not that I’m against it, but I wouldn’t have two of the same vehicle, and I’d make sure I add that extra cost into my figurin’.
Do you still have your old job or a new job letter?
What’s your budget if you leased?
model specific and no guarantee the pull ahead program will be in effect in the future
Sounds like you have enough budget for a solid sports sedan. I like this a lot better than a 911 and Camry. You’re going to be miserable every time you get into that Camry. There is no clever way around your mileage. Bite the bullet and get an E43 or 540. If you’re willing to spend $200 more, the M550 is spectacular.
I don’t necessarily have a budget per se but I want to know that I got the best deal while driving something I enjoy and protect myself from unexpected repairs.
I saw the new 2019 Lexus 350 f sport yesterday and both the exterior and interior of that car was on a completely other level than the 2016 pre-owned one I went to see.
That being said, I know that the first owner takes the biggest depreciation hit when they drive off the lot which is why I am ok with being the second owner on a vehicle with low miles.
What are you’re guys thoughts on purchasing extended warranty from independant reputable companies? Leaseguide.com says its cheaper than the manufacture extended warranty which is usually all profit for them and that it usually covers more. The 2 companies they suggest are Warranty Direct or Endurance Vehicle Protection.
Thoughts?
I just redid the same calculation adding in the taxes I would have to pay at purchase plus inceptions and it came out to about $590 per month.
In summary, buy a 2016 E350 Sport with 30k miles for $35,700 all in, drive 20k miles per year with full warranty for 3 years, trade in for about $14,500 in 3 years with 90k miles on it.
Can I do better than that with a newer vehicle over the next 36 months if I am going to drive 60k miles?
Yes if you give up the idea of Luxury. You can drive a newer Accord/Camry for 60 k miles without a 20k hit in depreciation. But if you are looking at Luxury sedans with MSRP >= 50k, then you will take a greater than 20k hit by leasing and paying mileage penalties on a 36m/15k lease with 5k mileage penalty per year …
I would definitely stick to 2-yr leases to limit your out-of-warranty exposure.
If you consider the $42/mo in extra miles (4k miles x 25 cents divided by 24 months), you would be looking for a $525 or less per month lease with 18k/yr and no more than first month DAS to make it more economical than the $590/mo you have calculated for the CPO car. Doesn’t seem like it should be all that tough.
Just to make sure I understand…
You are saying to find a luxury 2yr/18k per year lease for $525 or less per month and pay for 4k miles at the beginning of the lease?
Also what is DAS?
If I understood the above correctly, what type of vehicles do you think I can be looking at?
DAS = due at signing.
Paying them up front is up to you and what it saves you, if anything. What if you don’t use them? Would it be better to just wait till lease end? Those are things to ask yourself.
I don’t know which vehicles this month. Maybe you need a broker.
But what does an E350F get you? IMO neither sport not luxury, and it’s not cheap either. Either downgrade to save $$$ or get what you want. I just don’t see which of your requirements this car meets.
I was literally in the same perdicament a few weeks ago. Back to back 5ers. Mileage and out of warranty exposure was killing me. Downgraded a number of levels to Accord. Saved a ton of $. Luckily it’s somewhat fun to drive. For now it meets my needs. I wouldn’t even consider the ES350, makes no sense.
I thought I read somewhere that most lease companies will refund you for any unused miles (of the extra purchased miles).
What does a broker charge? I have never used one. Always have negotiated my own purchase but this time its more complex than usual based on the anticipated higher mileage.
3 series loaner is what I was thinking, they will refund any of the prepaid miles you don’t use. If you’re ready to do something right away just start getting some quotes, no need for a broker.
Elmo was going to drive 20k miles per year, so my math tells me he would pay extra for 5k miles (per year) over a 15k/yr lease. That works out to ~$104/month on my calculator.
If he knows for sure he’ll need 20k/yr he’s better off prepaying 18k. 40 - 18 x 2 = 4.
Read the rest of my post you didn’t quote. I suggested starting with an 18k/yr lease from a manufacturer who offers that, hence 2k miles per year over.
It’s pretty much applied to all the models
You can’t go down like E class to CLA