should be around 10k at the year mark. want to sell it around this time next year
Well, the best deal would be to spend less money if you plan to get rid of it in a year anyways. If you don’t plan on keeping it the mileage won’t necessarily matter if you go over (your 3rd party offer doesn’t take in to account your lease terms, just the overall mileage on the vehicle). HOWEVER, 1 year out and anything can happen. I would say the recommended route would be to pay for whatever mileage you need on the vehicle in the case that you have to drive it for 3 years.
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Makes sense. I’ll probably get the 12k just in case CCAP stops allowing third party buyouts and I don’t want to deal with purchasing and reselling.
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You assume that your minute contribution has earned you a special star, or that i even used your info to do what I do.
Who started this thread? Were you even on here in April when I got my first rubi?
you’re very insightful 
I’m in LA and like many of us from socal I went with Clutch. He has a dealer in the south and a dealer in the west. For this month their dealer is offering a $500 refundable deposit. Not sure if their broker fee is refundable or not. Shipping from the south dealer will be around $950. I looked into ordering through the dealer in the west since it’s closer to me but the tradeoff is .5% less discount and a higher mf. I think I did the math and it was like $1200 cheaper to go with the south dealer factoring in everything so I chose them.
Shipping from Mall of Georgia will run $1200-1500 to LA.
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To All that are bickering about “everything” (acquisition fee, RV, MF, MSRP) should understand that being greedy makes you even grumpier… Just be grateful, 
even if you end up driving the car for a while and get all the money paid back-who in the world lets you use a brand new car for FREE, let alone make a profit even as small as $500, $1000-that’s Free money to invest without risk or spend it, remember it’s still free money no matter how much it is…
Kindness is given, never taken
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Hi guys got the contract from Gupton does this look all accurate want to make sure before I sign.!
MSRP was $67,341
Screenshot_20211102-121244_Chrome|689x500
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Sounds good.
I am sure lots of users here have certainly appreciated my “minute contributions” within this site.
Certainly you being a flipper I understand your behavior above.
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If I order today, I won’t be able to lock anything, like sold order consumer protection program, residual value, money factor?
For Tier 1 credit, is it based on my credit score today or at delivery? Does Chrysler Capital pull credit today or at delivery? I have a 0% balance transfer that is holding down my score today. I can pay it off today but the credit report won’t update until end of this month.
No protection on anything except for sale price. MF, RV, incentives will be determined when you take delivery. Credit app due when car hits the dealer lot. CCAP offered credit tier bump in October, not sure if that was extended.
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I keep seeing this asked about the '22s, but I’m pretty sure you can’t lock figures that don’t exist yet.
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Your car’s msrp is $7,000 higher than mine but your one pay is only around $500 more than what I paid. I compared our interest charges and yours is around $900 less than mine. With the RV lock and the new MF you made out pretty nicely. The acquisition fee you have to pay wipes some of that away but you still came out ahead.
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Sold order protection locks in the sales price. CCAP is no longer locking in rv/mf/incentives. There also aren’t any available yet on the 22s as they haven’t started production, even if they did lock them in. Ordering now protects you against the inevitable msrp increases that are to come, as well as actually gets you a car.
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I’m debating if I should try to order now or wait a bit ha. I would like to have a '22, and I assume you have to take delivery to receive the $7,500 (that can’t be “locked” in).
and all us Tier 1 fold get nothing 
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If you’re able to do a refundable deposit, what good does waiting do you?
I’m not sure how they determine credit scores but the score I saw on the report was 849. When I check experian/transunion that number is closer to 750. I thought I was on the cutline but I made tier 1 with room to spare.
There’s three bazillion different scoring models out there. It’s alway a crapshoot checking on your own. But generally anything over 720 is Tier 1 at most banks
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