But this price ($37,944) is not from an ad though. I didn’t look at an ad (this time). This price is from BMW’s official CPO website. Isn’t that what I should put in the LH calc? I thought the $49,925 should be the MSRP in the calc, and the “internet price” is the “Selling price” in the calc.
I read the 101.
I picked either C300 4matic or 330i xDrive
I gathered the MF & RV from Edmunds for both vehicles
This is where I am focused now. From the little research that I did on the 330i, It looks like there’s limited data on my region though, but overall the MF & RV is similar to Edmunds’s.
I did that based on the official prices on the website (not monthly, but full vehicle price) and MF & RV from Edmunds
In the works.
I will continue reiterating over that list. Thanks.
In general the prices like that include every available incentive whether you qualify for them or not. If interested you can reach out to the dealer and ask for the actual selling price before incentives.
The reason people are saying to find out your target price via % off is because the dealers will often advertise prices that aren’t actually possible. They advertise with incentives included. I figured this out by emailing via the website and saying I know all the incentives in qualified for, can you let me know the actually selling price of this car.
If you want to PM me the link to the car I will take a look and try to see what is going on with that “Internet Price” you’re seeing. Generally speaking BMW dealers don’t advertise cars at a huge loss.
Is it leasable, does it include incentives you don’t qualify/can’t stack, what is the mileage to comensurate such a discount, these are the ?s you should be asking, not the assumptions you should be making.
I took a look. That car is actually a former service loaner according to the website, and they list that discount with no incentives or caveats anywhere on the page or in their payment personalization tool.
Like @AutoCompanion said you’ll still want to make sure that the RV hit from the mileage doesn’t effect it too much, but I would contact them and see whats up or if they would actually honor that selling price on a lease assuming that you looked at the what the monthly would be with everything factored in and decided that you wanted the vehicle.
Sorry @bmwmb, I didn’t realize that car was a 2020. No more lease support for 2020’s, that is probably why it is advertised so cheap. That won’t be lease-able unless they are still leasing 2020 G20’s in your region. Maybe @AutoCompanion has a better idea on that.
There’s no way to get this information without reaching to the dealer, right? detailed breakdown is not something that can be found online and not even when they put an offer… I had to explicitly ask every dealer for the MF and RV even when they generated an offer already, they just put prices. Generally, it feels like dealers are reluctant to give a detailed breakdown until I get to F&I (at least the ones I encountered in the PNW).
I thought I could save myself and the dealer time and get all the info from online research, but the websites aren’t as clear (and it’s clearly on purpose) and it seems inevitable to reach to them on every potential car just to see what is the real price and that it’s not advertised at an unrealistic pricing.
I visited a BMW dealership last week here in Bellevue and they said 2020 is still leaseable. They actually sent me an offer (which was high, as expected for that area ) and ofc without MF & RV even though I asked.
Again, reach out to the dealer for info. Dealership websites are often out of date. You as I said earlier can make a higher than reasonable offer, then negotiate it. Search #deals-and-tips to see what has been achieved and base an offer based off of that, aim higher considering (afaik) 2020s are supposed to loose all support at the end of this month, my remaining 2020 M8 is going to be an expensive paper weight.
RV and MF are available on Edmunds. Make sure you post on the right year for the car. You can figure out the lower RV by taking the miles on the car and subtracting 500. Then use the formula for RV on loaners with BMW. I haven’t done it in 2 years so I don’t remember it. The RV is set by bmwfs and not the dealer.
The last time I did this I set up an excel spreadsheet that I could just plug in the miles msrp and selling price (along with dealer and stock number with a link to the page on the dealer site) and it spit out the monthly for everything I wanted to know. 24 months 36 months 12K/yr 15Kyr price with aqc free and without but the higher MF.
Then any loaner I found I asked for the selling price directly through the website while saying I know the other information and what I’m qualified for so all I need is the selling price. Some dealers advertised actual price and others didn’t. Then decided if I was happy with those numbers and if not what price I wanted to ask for by copying that line and changing the selling price to where I got comfortable with the monthly and then asked for that price on the car I wanted.
The dealers that advertised a lower selling price I figured would be more open to dealing. Could also see at what point that mileage caused such a hit it wasn’t worth getting one with x amount of miles.
Newb question (out of curiosity) - do you give them your full details (full name, cell, email, zip) every time you reach them to ask about a car using the online chat? I do that but was curious if it can have a negative effect? In the country that I came from, dealers have very little patience for customers (the market is very concentrated there) so I might be exaggerating unnecessarily.
I would email a manager directly, personally, and lay out your offer and tell them if they will accept it you’ll move forward immediately, and if not, no hard feelings. Just make sure you actually mean it if you say that, because it would be really awkward for them to say yes and then you’re like “uhhh I have to talk to my wife/sister/uncle/exchange student/cousin/hair stylist/banker/etc”
Not necessarily, just a general notation. It makes us all look bad and makes dealers jaded when you ask for a great deal, they say yes, and then you back away. I say this to everyone. Only negotiate if you’re prepared to take the vehicle if they hit your number.
I have an email that I only use for quotes. I change my name slightly, so when I go to the dealer, and I give them all my info, it doesn’t trigger money going to a car aggregator site that I may have mistakenly gotten a cookie from. I also have a google voice number that I have on do not disturb. In the end I give them the info required to fill out the form. I give more respect to dealerships that only require email though. I’m pretty protective of my info though.
When clicking the more info on the website for the car I say I prefer to deal over email and can respond to that at work, but I can’t talk on my phone at work. I don’t use the online chat, I click the get the internet price now or similar button. The online chat is most likely not a real person. If a person and not AI generated emails follows up on the email, I will tell them the truth, researching the market, probably a week or three out from a decision and I will follow up if that car works.
When I went to lease the car the internet manager and assistant had 2 people who had no showed that morning who promised to come in. He did remark I was really hard to pin down, but when I said I would come in I did. I never say I will do something without intent to do it. Don’t say yes I will come in for a test drive if you don’t plan on doing it. Don’t say if you give me this price I will buy it if you won’t be there that day to buy it. I would stay away from saying “if you give me this price I will be there today” to more than one place at a time. If they both say yes, you’re going back on your work with one of them.
) and ofc without MF & RV even though I asked.