In my negotiation with them, I wonder if I should just say itâs ok to increase the money factor as long as they give me the right sales price. Since I intend to put a big lease payment down and then buy out, the higher money factor shouldnât affect me right?
You should tell them to give you the sales price on the PO you agreed to, and if they dont, tell them to pound sand.
Yeah Iâm just afraid that theyâll come back and say âoh well the monthly payment is the same as on the P.Oâ per @j_e_f_f 's note.
But absolutely going to have a talk with them about getting that sales price right because thatâs what will impact me most.
Update - Talked to the dealer who said they would be adjusting it so that itâs 43.5k sales price.
Theyâre claiming that âthere were fees previously baked in there that they will now itemize in the new contract and that my monthly payment would be the same.â
Iâm guessing that theyâre going to play with the money factor to get âthe payment the sameâ because lowering the sales price should technically also lower the payments. Unless they maybe introduce new fees on those line items.
You need to get in touch with @Jrouleau426 and see what he has 
doesnât hurt to shop arround
If this works, then you also save on any sales tax on CCR.
On the note of CCR - is it weird that theyâre listing the $6500 rebate CCR in my DAS section?
Actually answering my own question - I see that theyâve itemized it as a rebate.
Think of two columns as âsources of cashâ (rebate) and âuses of cashâ (CCR).
They seem to be first class scammers!
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They are claiming now, that the sales price of $45,900 includes fees. Which fees are they talking about? The only dealer fees that you agreed on the original P.O was a dealer doc fee of $699, so the max total would be $44,199. Additionally, they did not include the doc fee in the purchase price of $45,900, as line item K. Shows a separate doc fee besides the $45,900.
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They are claiming that monthly payments are the same as the original because it currently includes sales tax. So far, everytime Iâve negotiated on a car, the sales price would obviously exclude sales tax. HOWEVER when it came to giving me actual monthly payments for a lease, they would always ask for my zipcode to calculate the real monthly payments including sales tax. So I doubt that the original purchase order excludes sales tax.
To back this up, I used the LH calculator with the original sales price, $699 doc fee, Base MF and a tax rate of 8.8% ( not sure what your local tax rate is, so I used the average for Wahington) and guess what? Itâs $0 DAS $672 per month!
To me it seems like they just raised the sales price now, to make room for the extra âsales taxâ they are claiming wasnât in the original purchase order.
Thanks for running the math!
I also think theyâre trying to double charge me. The $1010 title, $650 acq fee, and $600 doc fee kind of add up to the $2400 discrepancy between the 43.5k P.O and the 45.9 thing they listed.
So I think their rationale is that the 45.9 is the âfees inclusiveâ price but theyâre actually trying to make me pay those fees twice.
If I were you, I would move forward with the deal, only if you plan to buy it out right away and only if they raise the monthly payments through a bump in the MF. At the end of the day a $3k dealer discount is not easy to come by, and it wonât affect your pocket if you buyout righaway.
Just donât forget to PLEASE buy it out before 3 months, so that they donât make any money on trying to scam you.
Also, donât forget the reviewsâŚ
If the new contract shows a selling price of $43.5k plus $2,400 in additional b.s that you did not agree to in the first place, you have no reason to get a car all the way from CT.
Cool - if theyâre only going to do the money factor change. I think Iâll move forward.
Just to confirm, if I do a big prepayment with Toyota Financial in the first month and then buy out afterwards, I should be ok right? That big prepayment should mostly go towards the depreciation of the vehicle?
Thanks so so much for your analysis!
Another thing they might be ripping me off for - it seems like $1010 for title license and registration is high⌠They had $285 in their CT title license and registration number but said the WA version is higher.
Definitely sounds like a potentail hack. But Iâm not sure.
If your decision on buying the car is based on saving the sales tax, than I would be cautious. If you are definitely buying and just trying a loophole you have nothing to lose. Just keep us updated!
Scamming you by changing numbers on the purchase price is one level. Upcharging government fees is a new low, and you should be able to recoup the money from them if itâs inaccurate.
Iâd suggest that you call a local dealer and ask what Registration fees are.
Ah thatâs a good point - my brain is mush and I didnât even think about that as a resource.
I would expect any payments to be taxed at the time theyâre made. So it wouldnât make much difference there.
Yup. I would fully expect a further bait and switch.