I have a sort of itemization, but even with ChatGTP’s help, I’m over $200 lower than the actual payment ($538). Is this even possible/useful without a quote?
First off you need to know whether their ‘down’ is DAS or actually just a down (cap reduction)…as your trade is technically 6000 down their chart doesn’t even go that high…then you need to know lease cash (it looks like they are giving you 8500 for rebates/lease cash with the 3400 MSRP discount), correct base MF and RV for your term/model…double check at Edmunds lease forums.
Something is off tho as your gross cap cost should be 60425+1249+114+999 or 62787…adj cap is then that minus your down/trade and lease cash/rebates.
They have a total gross cap of 62009 which is 778 higher than I can see…so are they adding in maybe your first payment/tax for true $0 DAS even though you are technically putting down 6000 which generally isn’t the smartest thing to do on leases in case of a total, etc.
I’ll ask. I just know that no other dealership could get within $150 of that offer and still deliver it without an additional cost. I’ve done this enough times to know when I’ve found the best (un)reasonable price, but I had hoped this site might be helpful to know that more concretely. I know the MF and RV.
I’d pay taxes selling the car otherwise and they’re only 1k below what I’d get a
Carvana, plus their driver will need a car to drive back, so it’s the wisest decision in my case.
If you have ‘done it enough times’ then instead of relying on what a dealer tells you just use the calc and do the math to put together your own target payment for the DAS you want using expected discount/incentives/base MF and RV for your term and shop it around to see who will match or beat.
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The calculator isn’t intuitive enough, especially when you don’t have an exact full-quote in front of you, to figure it out. I figure 40+ dealerships is enough shopping, don’t you?
No, the user usually is the problem. The calc is easy. Just have to do your research and homework. You are doing it backwards…what good is shopping if you don’t even know what a good deal is? Put a good deal together yourself first and tell them you are ready to sign if met.
Also, you do know you can trade the car in and instead of using the 6000 for a cap reduction you can ask for a check, right?
PS, a thanks is usually nice to hear from a stranger after I spent time looking over a situation you clearly don’t understand from your calc…but hey just do it your way as I’m very sure the many dealers you have dealt in the past have made some good money off you.
Not if you declined to make offers instead of soliciting quotes.
Your calculator double counted the discount. Selling price reflects the discount from MSRP which is $3,400.
You cannot count that 3,400 again when it comes to incentives. So incentives are only $11,900 - $3,400 =$8,500.00
Are you sure the incentives are untaxed? Which state are you registering in?
I redid the calc for him but he obviously isn’t interested in learning…just wants to continue to ask dealers about what he doesn’t really know. 
Thanks for the insights.
If you’re trying to fill out the calculator based on a dealer quote, you have already put the cart before the horse.
You should know exactly what the lease should cost before ever speaking to a dealer.
How can you effectively negotiate a deal if you don’t know where you’re trying to get to?
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You are welcome…it is well worth your while to search around this site on how to use the calc and target deals and how to put them together…it will save you thousands.
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It’s my 4th lease and I don’t stop getting offers until I get called a liar or they literally say “take that price if it’s real.” Not sure how I’d be getting a better offer by making an offer. I did that to start with the strategy - per this site - and got literally nowhere. No where. They weren’t interested or they just cooked the books to show a big “dealership discount” but made it up elsewhere. When I started asking them for their best price and getting them to beat it, the entire conversation changed. Y’all’s way is probably better, but not the way I know how to do it. There’s more than one way to skin a cat. I’m new here, was locked out for a week or so, and am up against the wall with the lease credit and tariffs. I feel I’m doing the best I can. I am not rejecting advice, but some of it is really just bitching about me not doing y’all’s way. “Backwards,” etc. I hope to learn more as I go forward. Thanks for all the time you’ve spent trying to help me, though.
It isn’t bitching…it’s called trying to get you to educate yourself so you can control the process instead of the dealer…putting together a target deal has worked for me EVERY SINGLE TIME I have leased…you also can’t deal with regular salespeople…put your offer together and email to sales manager or GM.
Lastly, what if you are in the finance office and the dealer adds something to contract or changes numbers…how will you know what new payment is unless YOU can calculate it? You just rely on them? Well, dude, they LOVE you!
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Best thing you can do is research what a great deal is via a combination of info here and the calc and then pitch that deal to the dealerships. They’ll either do business or tell you to walk, but either way you control the situation.
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I don’t rely on them. If a payment goes up, they changed something. It’s pretty simple. And you just look at the quote and see where the numbers are going. A lower payment (with $0 down) is a lower payment, regardless of whether I’m sending an offer or getting them to compete. I tried your strategy and it got me nowhere. I’m glad it’s worked for you. I’ll try that next time if I can get better explanations of how one does it.
Yeah, I did that. The numbers people brag about are invariably in states with significant state incentives with money down they often don’t disclose until it’s asked. I tried sending offers that were competitive. They ignored me or sent an offer that was several hundred higher than I’m currently getting. 
How did you determine you were sending competitve numbers without being able to fill out a calculator to calculate the lease?
It got you nowhere because the dealer could tell that you didn’t really understand what you were doing and they just moved to take advantage of you. You need to take a day and really study the calc and how to put a deal together.
Do you know what ‘zero down’ is versus ‘zero DAS’? You can have zero down and still owe money at signing. Dealers destroy people like you by saying oh it’s zero down but hey, 3500 is due at signing for that lower payment you want.
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Honestly, your best move is to search Marketplace on this site for a broker to help you. They will easily pay for themselves and some don’t even charge.
Because I knew what competitive offers.