Hi everyone! I know I am going to open up Pandora’s box of mixed advice.
I fully expect a plethora of Dave Ramsey loving super conservative replies. (I’m not interested in that, I’ve been down that road before and life is too short).
We have a 6 person family, I’m in WV and currently have a 2023 jeep grand Cherokee L. Long story short the suv ended up being just too small ultimately.
Looking to create a strategy to get into a larger full sized suv. I did NOT roll any negative equity into this when I bought it new. To my great surprise I had a dealer appraisal today and I’m -$20,000 under water.
We have two vehicles, my thoughts are trade my jeep in for a small leased EV to capture more competitive incentives. I would then trade my Acura mdx in on a used Yukon XL or similar. Definitely not new, I don’t have that kinda cheddar. Apparently I am around 4K negative so on that one which is much easier to deal with. I work from home mainly and the kids hardly ride in my work car so I can manage with a 5 seater EV for work. My intent is to trade the mdx for a used suv that is 4-5 years old and less than $35,000 which should put me around the same payment that I have on the mdx…ish
I went and tried working a deal with Subaru today on a solterra but i ultimately walked away because im not sold that im thinking through every possible scenario objectively. Subaru dealer could make the deal work with $2,900 cash down but with a payment of $1200 with the $7,500 tax credit discount. 36 month 45,000 mile lease
My current financed payment on the jeep is $1,025 with 55 months remaining and a balance of 56k
I saw an incentive from Lexus for $17,000 lease cash which sounds interesting to me. Im confused by Lexus’ website because it says cash due at signing $17,000 but at the same time is calling it a discount??
In summary, my objective is this.
Get into a full sized sub for a suitable family hauler.
At minimum not increase payment commitment
Wipe away $20k in negative equity via a lease and be back square in 36 months.
Any advice or input that I may not be thinking about would be appreciated.
Thanks for the reply, we’ve tried an Acadia, aviator, the Jeep and all have issues with storage. Can’t haul groceries, no more than two pieces of luggage. I have a hitch platform as well but I don’t like dealing with that on the daily, not sustainable.
I’ve had two odyssey vans. Great vans, I drove the wheels off of the first one we had. But we live in WV my driveway has a 9% slope and snow. Vans sit too low and push snow regardless of they are awd or not. Plus I pull an occasional trailer and mini vans doesn’t tow very well.
I agree and that’s a concern. They don’t seem to last very long I just can’t reconcile spending 90k on a vehicle. I feel like we can never win with vehicles. We’ve bought cheaper used vehicles that cost us so much money and time sitting in garages that it didn’t make sense. The repercussions of having so many kids, can’t just fit in anything comfortably.
Why not hang onto the Jeep Grand Cherokee L for now and focus on a 1-car transaction around replacing the MDX? If you keep driving the GC L the negative equity won’t be an issue as long as you hold the car to the end of the loan term / until you are no longer underwater.
Agreed here that large crossover (Traverse, Grand Highlander) is probably where I would start. Hefty premium to pay for the full body-on-frame treatment. Traverse, VW Atlas, and Grand Highlander are all larger than Acadia, Aviator, and GC L and is probably where I would start, with some preference for Traverse and Grand Highlander.
Other option is to keep riding out both cars and just drive 2 cars when everything has to be transported at the same time… Not ideal, but to me sounds more appealing than transacting for relatively marginal increases in space.
Seems like trying to roll the $20k of negative equity into an EV or otherwise is just unnecessarily over complicating the problem. Either way you’re still eating the $20k.
Replace the MDX with the best vehicle that works for you within your budget, that’s probably the only good option at this point.
You’re probably looking at around $700/mo added to a 36 month lease to cover the negative equity, so you’ll need something sub-$300/mo without the negative equity rolled in to “break even”
Won’t make a bit of difference to what you pay. You have to pay the negative equity one way or the other.
The only thing it will potentially do is enable the lease to actually absorb that much negative equity and still fund since you may still be within the LTV limits.