Help! kia stinger deal

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I think you need a new broker.

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Okay so what kind of discount/ monthly price should I target ? Is there a website I could use on my own that will tell me if the deal is good or bad ? You mentioned a poster ?

Is it very poor? 4000 /36 mths plus $317 is $428? right around 1%

Has been discussed many times in other threads, 1% isn’t a useful metric to apply as an absolute in all deals.

The OP (for the new part of this thread) has essentially listed that they are getting very little discount, aside from the incentive. Another poster (who is a broker) had already suggested on pushing for $4000 off MSRP before the incentive. It’s not clear to me if @Lhermos1974 had asked the dealer about that or if @Lhermos1974 simply accepted the first selling price he was offered.

The MF is horrrific. Is that the buy rate (the lowest rate the dealer is allowed to offer)?

The RV is also poor. That’s not something that the OP can do anything about, but, since the 2 biggest variables in a lease being “good” or “bad” are the MF and RV, there’s no way that the final number for the monthly payment is going to be good particularly when both the MF and RV stink.

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Ok, i dont frequent enough to know the current politics but i see the 1% being used to tear some peoples deals apart. $428 doesnt seem that bad for the price of the car, i agree, mf can possibly be changed but residual cant.

Surely a good deal is on a car by car basis - a bmw leases better but if you want a kia that doesnt lease well - what constitutes a good deal!

He also mentioned fees and taxes upfront, so another $2k?

Honestly, it depends on what your priorities are. BMW 3-series, MB C-Class, Kia Stinger (and let’s throw in the Genesis G70 and Audi A4). Is there a genuinely bad car in the bunch? Not at all. Do they really feel that different in everyday driving. Probably not. And I’m only driving the car for 2-3 yrs anyway.

I personally wouldn’t care which one I drove (aside from the Stinger being a little bigger than what I like/need) and would honestly choose based on the best deal.

If you fall in love with only one car, then it’s probably going to cost you…

JMO, but I would say that would “require” that the OP contact a lot of dealers in their geographic area (and maybe even out of their geographic area, depending on where they’rer located) and having none of those dealers budge on the PRE-INCENTIVE selling price.

Has the @Lhermos1974 contacted any other dealers? That’s not at all clear to me.

I agree, id go for the best deal for a vehicle in the same kind of class - lots of nice cars out there and at my age im less picky or brand loyal. If people do want something specific though they may have to pay more for it of course but I guess my point is the best advice you can receive is - ‘is THIS a good deal for THIS car’. I see people say i could buy a watch for $20 and it tells the time just as well as a $35k rolex but if you want the rolex you want the best deal you can.

yeah, presume its not part of the monthly payment so that brings us to $484 area.