First time considering a lease, working with a “family friend”, but not sure I’m getting a fair deal. Thoughts on the proposal and how I should approach it?
A 9% discount is short of the mark, especially on a loaner. The $1995 permaplate has to go. Deal doesn’t look that friendly to me, you could do better on Marketplace
They are baking in some hidden fees into this deal most likely or not giving you the subvented money factor that BMW offers.
Here’s what this deal actually should look like (based on your $9,000 in rebates and $7,745 dealer discount) - $780/month pre-tax.
This monthly assumes that you’d be paying all the doc. fees, govt. fees, upfront taxes and the acquisition fee at signing.
See from the calculator below:
You could potentially go for a more aggressive dealer discount, apparently the other person on here thinks that 9% is too low for a 5k loaner and I can agree.
Those 5k miles were most likely pretty rough.
If you get yourself the ratefindr on this forum, you’d be able to go in there and play with the numbers to get the deal to where you want it to be.
Then when you present all the numbers to the dealer, they’ll take you more seriously and know that they can’t play games with you.
Thanks for the suggestion on getting into rate finder, well worth being a member to get access and education! Looking at the calculator you sent it doesn’t reference the Demo Miles. Is this optional for the dealership to include in the residual or will it be on there regardless, thus lowering the residual and increasing the payment?
The way I see it, DAS is going to be close to $3000 regardless the deal with Chicago/Cook county tax up front on the credits and lic/plat/doc fees what they are.
Not sure about this, sorry. I would guess that the demo miles will not be accounted for in the residual value, you should be safe with the RV you get off here.
I’ve learned a lot here. Moving towards iX. I feel like I’m close here but can’t find where the extra $60 or so monthly is based on the calculator. Any advice?
Thank you. I assumed they were giving me the standard Subvented MF offer. I assume then that’s where they’re making their extra and where I could try to negotiate if I wanted to go lower?
At this point, don’t try to piecemeal it and pull individual levers. Just give the dealer your target offer and get a yes or no. By looking at one lever, it is easy for the shell game to be played with you.
Come up with your target offer, and if the dealer says yes, all is good.
Your deal is completely solid, 11% off with marked-up money factor and no-add’s without the use of a broker is a deal worth accepting if the car is what you want.
Could I beat this by 1% with my Chicago dealer? Yes. Is it really worth it if you love the car they have in stock? Probably not.