You haven’t mentioned anything about the TC pricing for the Rogue SV you’re interested in. Or if you’ve had some lease quotes.
But why haven’t you spoke to @Cars4Us about his Rogue SV for $251/mo or @AutoNinjas who has CX-30s for around $200/mo w 1999 DAS and MSD’s which you can’t apply in NY.
She posted on his thread where his last reply was 24 days ago to someone asking about a Honda and he said “I’ll post the programs for July when they come in”
Hmmmm… it’s only the 29th
My sister just picked up a new Sonata from Wayne, NJ where they honored True car pricing. It was a week ago, Wayne Hyundai.
You’re in NY and seem to be pretty new at this. Why not use a broker? Plenty of options. They’re help you save time and money.
Also, take all of the Nissan / Infiniti hate here with a grain of salt. Leasehackr seems to despise them, primarily for the CVT. But if you’re not a driving aficionado you will notice almost zero difference driving a Rogue vs base RAV4 or CRV or Hyundai Tucson. I leased a Rogue and it was FINE. I’ve driven all the other similar SUVs on my many business trips and honestly they’re very very similar. They all feel under powered if you’re used to more high end cars, which I’m assuming a lot of the frequent posters here are.
I’m currently leasing an Equinox because at the time the deals were excellent. I never thought I’d own an American car to be honest. But it drives and handles much better than all of the above listed models. Just finished a 3 day drive halfway across the country with a family of four in it. No complaints.
I did speak to @Cars4Us and he was really great based on speaking to him I would absolutely recommend people get in touch, but he does not have stock on the car I want at the dealers he deals with. He did offer an alternative to a Nissan but when I test drove I did not love it.
I thought about the CX-30 and if the deal was on a CX-5 I would take it
I have had tons of lease quotes, they are mostly terrible except on cars I do not want or do not work for me. The TC price on the Rogue SV base with mats and cargo cover is 24,090.
The lease on the Nissan Rogue S with SE package and mats and cargo cover, MSRP 29020 is $229 per month. DAS Bank Fee (which they inflated to $995 even though it is $650) , DMV, Taxes and First Payment. I think the residual without the SE package is 48%. and the MF is low. It is not a bad deal, they are not eager to give it to me and the lack of push button start and some other SV features really bothers me. This based on an ad not TC. It is 36/12
Today I got a similar deal on the 2020 Acura ILX $220 or $229 I forget (national promotion but without the CCR) which is good until they run out of them or $289 for the TLX but both are FWD and 36/10
The CRVs in my area are running $280 for the LX or $300 for the EX with DAS FP, T, Bank and DMV
36/10
I could get $325 on a Pilot EXL but I do not want my kids driving that and they do not want to either (too many surfaces to dent), 36/10
Finally, the Chevy dealer near me is offering $109 with Conquest (which I think I have) plus $1500 DAS plus FP, T, and DMV and they do not mention a bank fee so not sure if that is something hidden somewhere. It is 24/10. My hesitation other than it is the base LS without BS monitoring is that the residual on a car that sells for $21,000 is $19785. Does not make sense
Anyone will sell a car at “TrueCar price” if it’s a lease and they can make it up in rate and backend lol
As a dealer, TrueCar and Costco are meaningless. They literally don’t do anything special, you can get
the same price by walking in the door.
Your post is so timely because I am debating the Equinox lease. Do you have an LS or LT? The deal is on the LS. I test drove it the other day but looking back I did not put it under fair conditions (not worth going into) and was considering going again. In the ad I could not find the information on the bank fee, is there one with GM? Also one dealer I went to (there are two that run the same promotion) tried to tell me I needed an affiliation in order to get the deal even though the ad clearly spells out the incentives that apply
Only new to the site. Bought my first car in 1986 when you had to use the paper version of Edmunds to get the invoice prices and negotiate off of that. I have called brokers, and the one mentioned above was amazing, really impressed and there is one car he has that I am considering and would get it through him. I usually call the Brooklyn brokers and they often have great deals on Nissans but or luxury cars but for Honda I usually do better on my own. Right now in my area the deals on cars are $100 more than usual due to low inventory
I would be buying and paying cash on the TC deal or if I have to will take the crappy financing and prepay it next week through my own financing
Well you’re asking on a leasing forum. And if someone from TrueCar tells me they’re paying cash the price goes up.
Then you just answered my question, Thank you!
I was really hoping to lease, but I am not sure that is possible right now unless I compromise on the lease I am going to take and I would not go to that dealer for the lease price anyway
If someone isn’t updating the TrueCar Pricing on a regular basis based on incentives, inventory, etc. then this could definitely happen.
Dealerships pay TrueCar monthly for their services so a dealership really has to make a lot of customers angry and generate a lot of complaints for TrueCar to tell a dealership “we don’t want your money and we are cancelling your service”. I have only seen it happen once with a Honda Dealership.
One question, someone walks in and starts asking about residual and MF and someone else walks in asking what FWD is, do you offer them both the same price?!
Like everything else TC, Costco, this forum, the calculator, ads, searching inventory are all tools to get to a better price
Not sure what you mean by this but I don’t particularly enjoy when customers tell me what they think I should be selling my car for. Read leasing 101.
Don’t go in person, work the deal over the phone with an ISM or ISD.
Have realistic expectations and ask if they can meet that politely. If they can’t get you to your desired lease structure then it’s fine, just move onto the next dealership until you find one that will.
I would never tell you what you should sell your cars for, simply what I am willing to pay.
I did negotiate my highlander lease entirely by email, did not even speak to the woman.That was then.There were cars then
As for customers walking in, today I walked into an Acura dealership, was only going to look since I thought it outside my price range. We talked about my recent Honda lease (he was impressed with my 0 down payment and he was not being polite), about TC (I did not even mention the price because I really do not want FWD) and then gave me what I thought was an amazing lease price on the ILX
Personally, I think you have to go with the promotions and the incentives, anything else is a waste. Right now they are good on the ILX and terrible on the Accord and CRV. Unfortuantely I need AWD
What are the promotions and incentives on all 3?
I really was not interested in Acura so did no research, went in to see if there was an AWD sedan and prices on RDX (which are out of my price range but I am looking in the low 2s). The ILX and TLX have a national promotion that runs through August of $229 and 289 with I think a 3k cap cost reduction and either $500 conquest (limited to Honda and other high end brands, I had a Honda but my Highlander would not have qualified) or I think $1000 Acura Loyalty. The salesman offered me the same deal but without the CCP he has been working there awhile and the best negotiator I know buys from that dealer
As for the Accord there are almost none available in my area. Usually they practically sell them on every street corner at a discount (my last two leases were accords, $159 a month and $169 or $179 a month (cannot remember and I could have done better if I had bought a month earlier each time) DAS Tax, Bank and DMV
Honda has some loyalty and conquest promotions which I have never seen them do before but I am no expert. However I think the current MF on some models such as the CRV are high and they are not discounting them. I used the calculator on the CRV lease even at promotion prices at my local dealer and it was 7 years something. Not really worth it. If you want to know the incentives go to Edmunds and ask they may have more information.
Honestly, it’s impossible to know for sure if one deal is better than the other because you don’t actually have the numbers, you’re just guessing.
You’ll need the months money factor, residual values, available incentives and lease programs you qualify for in order to compare deals apples to apples.
Then you’ll need to check the MSRP of the vehicles and compare selling prices to really know which ones lease better than the other.
Exactly. That is what I do when I complete the calculator. You get the MF, incentives and residuals from Edmunds Forums and plug them in. I assume you are familiar with the calculator which asks all of those things. I did not keep the ones I did yesterday otherwise I would link and you can see.
When I ran some deals on the Rogue I got 9 years, the CRV 7 and the Equinox I forget but it was higher than both of them but I found the car a little loud when I test drove it.
At the end of the day I am just trying to save $1200 or so on a lease and to get the best deal for a family car with an MSRP of around 30k or even lower if it has a decent engine, some nice features and is AWD. Right now is the highest I have seen Honda CRV deals for a while but I do not watch them professionally.
To my point, 2 years ago I needed an eight seater with leather and needed it by the end of July no matter what and the best options were the Pilot with a lease through a credit union (did not love that idea) and a Highlander leased through Toyota. Had a slight preference for a Highlander but that also ended up being about $25 a month or more cheaper for similar features, if it was the other way around I would have gotten the Pilot (was sitting in the Honda dealership when I agreed to the Highlander deal on July 30). Honda was not supporting the leases with incentives and the best deal for an EXL (Tax Bank DMV DAS) was in the high 3s after many emails and much shopping. Right now you can walk into my local dealer and with loyalty (or possibly conquest, I forget and do not care anyway since not looking at a Pilot) you can get a Pilot EXL for $325. Unfortunately my kids are scared of driving a big car otherwise I would grab it and give them my Highlander to use. Did I really care whether the Pilot or the Highlander was the absolute best deal based on MSRP? No they are equivalent cars for my needs and the payment and DAS was $25 less per month on the Highlander so that was the better deal at that time. Part of the reason it was cheaper is because Toyota had incentives specifically on the XLE. The LE leased for not much less than the XLE
While I am not a novice, I never claimed to be an expert. I am not trying to get a BMW lease that I can resell to make money, simply a good price on a car that meets my needs