I like the 1% rule when it comes to leasing. Compare it to a purchase price and its golden! For example; 50000 car is $1000 per month based on $100 per $5000 car OR lease same car for $500 per month for 36 months. Very generic I know so donât yell at me. Haha!
You are right. I need to keep the initial question of âwhy canât I just tell the dealer what I want to pay per month?â
Fair enough. I believe this is the simplest way to negotiate rather than point out all factors on the calculator. And I believe other LHs are right to say it needs to be a computed payment per month and not one just pulled from the sky.
1% rule is useless (and I know @mllcb42 is going to get mad at me for saying this) unless you are comparing two deals from two of the same models (330i to 330i). That way, you can determine which deal is âbetterâ as the MP for a higher MSRP are is also going to be higher. But the LeaseHackr score is also a much better way of looking at this, putting the value into an approximation in terms of years and not percentage points.
Comparing a Chevy truck to a BMW is not something that is possible. Different makes, models, incentive programs, RV, dealer holdbacks, etc. Go ahead and compare a 330i to an M340i all day, as those cars share some resemblance in terms of the lease calculations.
Not in terms of good deal, but solely as a comparative value. It is solely as another data point in making a decision, not as a metric for how good is my deal.
A hypothetical example: Letâs say I have a base S60 T6 MOM and a loaded S60 T6R, both of which you have negotiated the best deal for. Where RVs and price-point is different, but the incentives are the same, being able to say âyeah the T6 MOM is going to be more due to a lower MP/COST ratio.â Think of it has the mole of leasing . Though I am not saying that someone who posts saying <1% = Good deal is correct. Far from it.
But that isnât applying the 1% rule at all⌠thatâs a totally different comparison. Yah, youâre utilizing %MSRP, but applying the 1% rule would be looking at that situation and saying âwell, the MOM and R are both under 1%, so theyâre both equally awesome! yay!â with no comparison to determine which one was actually better.
You are telling you donât use the âDays of negotiations to F&I Protection Package sales pushesâ statistic? Far better than the one you are referencing.
Well said. It is always nice to have a dealerâs perspective on the LH threads. If the numbers from your dealership come out cheaper with a lower selling price and a slightly marked up MF, that wouldnât bother me. If it comes out cheaper the other way around, then Iâll see if you can match, if you canât then Iâll move on.
Maybe the doc fee is higher at one dealer vs. another. Back in 2014 I was shopping for a 2015 Subaru Legacy. The dealer near my house in CT had a $399 Conveyance Fee. The dealer 15 minutes away in NY had a higher selling price, but a doc fee of only $75. I added everything up and the NY dealer was $100 cheaper after everything. I gave the CT dealer a chance and he said no. So I bought in NY.
In 2012 I was shopping leftover BMW 328xi leases. Every dealer I contacted had the same deal on the table, Invoice less incentives, base MF. At the time I thought it was a great deal, turns out it wasnât (but was a fun car to dirve for 30 months/50K miles). I had a trade in at the time. Dealer A offered me 13,500 for it (and made it sound like he was doing me a favor), dealer B took a look and offered me $16,500.
There is no simple way to deal with dealers. They will always try to pull something quick on you. However you approach it, at the end of the day you ll have to go over every detail if you want a hackr worthy deal.