Got these numbers from a lease broker in southern Cali. Seems okay to me but I think I can do better. Talked to the broker and he said the discount off msrp is around $7000 and the mf is .000xx.
He wouldn’t give me exact details until I pay him for his services. The service is legit cause me friend got a car from them. I just want to know if I can do any better hopefully like the deals they were having in December. Any rebates/incentives? Should I just go to a dealer and negotiate? Can anyone tell me the avg price paid for the Q50 of various trims? Can I get any better of a discount off msrp? Thx.
Deal looks great. The $2,000 down translates to about $50/month over 39 months; even accounting for that, a sub-$300/month lease with standard drive-offs for a $40K car is great.
Can you get the same deal yourself? Absolutely, but it’ll require some emails. As a reference, OC Infiniti has an ad for $289/mo + tax and $1,495 drive-off for a Q50 3.0 Premium.
You should be able to do much better than $7k off. People have been getting over 20% off MSRP. Read the several big threads specifically on the Q50. Lots of people are getting theirs from AutoNation Infinit in Tustin.
We had a deal die at Tustin infiniti (Salesperson is Mr. Munoz mentioned a lot on this forums) due to credit score less than 700.
$700 drive-off, then $284/mo + tax on 39/12k. MSRP was a little over $40k, 21% discount with no MSD
It wasn’t a done deal and very unfortunate that we couldn’t do the deal … maybe somebody could take over. But definitely were bummed out as we were ready to go 
…
Seems like I’m gonna have to try and match that deal… I pm’d you.
Keep in mind that the vast majority of car brokers get a kickback from the dealers they work with. They don’t actually go out and negotiate with all the local dealers - they usually just get “fleet” pricing from the few dealers they work with.
Now, sometimes that can indeed be the best deal available, but oftentimes that’s not the case. If you want to be a true lease hackr, you need to do the work yourself because nobody is going to do it for you.
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… looks around … I DO!
I also bill direct - I don’t work the fleet dept for anything.
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How much do you charge? And how many dealers do you get bids from? Your site doesn’t have any info
Website is just for newsletter - I’m still running lean!
$199 - I work as many as necessary. I am starting to charge a 25% retainer though… many shoppers on here (and that’s not a bad thing! I just don’t want to spin my tires for someone looking 6 months out)
If the first store comes back with $2500 behind invoice or something crazy - and we’re in the target range… I don’t need to shop others.
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So I took the advice of some of the people who replied, and negotiated with a dealer myself. I’m surprised that it worked and I ended up getting the following numbers. $300 a month including tax, $0 due at signing… “sign and drive”. He hasn’t replied with the specific msrp and other info, but this was for a base model signature edition Q50. I’m assuming the msrp is $39,820, as that is the lowest priced Q50 signature edition on their website. Can I get a better deal than this? And how can I calculate my leasehackr score?
Be careful about just taking the deal without knowing the specifics. You should pick a car first (if that’s the Signature edition, that’s great). Then, get the MSRP, look on TrueCar to see what the best discounts people are getting to arrive at a selling price. Be aggressive, but not unrealistic.
Most of the other lease terms for Infiniti are fixed. Ensure the Money Factor isn’t marked up above what Infiniti has set. You can use Multiple Security Deposits (MSDs) to reduce the MF to near 0. As long as you don’t damage the car or put excess wear and tear in it, you’ll get this money back at the end of the lease.
Understand the deal from front to back. You’re probably getting a good deal here. But without knowing this info it’s possible that you could do even better.
On the LH front page, there is a button for the calculator. Select Infiniti from the drop down, then enter all of the deal info (you don’t have all of this yet). It will calculate that score for you.
Just for comparison sake, this is a Cleveland dealerships advert.
That is a higher msrp vehicle, for a similar price.
$199 is totally worth not having to deal with all the hassles of negotiating. But how do you know the target range beforehand?
We discuss it and if I think I can fit the pricing in that box I take a shot @ it.
If I can’t, I don’t refund the deposit. I just keep it for whatever other vehicle you want.
That said - if you scroll through my post history, I usually give away all the secrets anyway.