Thanks, I kind of figured but wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything. They also just bumped the value up so now they’ll pay me $200 and I’ll be out of it.
This is how it works in most states. If the dealer buys out your lease (3rd party buyout) you pay no additional tax but get no additional tax credit. If you buyout the lease, you pay the outstanding tax, car is retitled in your name, and now you get a tax benefit on trade-in (most states) but it’s a net wash. Do you know if your buyout includes outstanding tax?
Suggest you use the two-account trick to check for better offers before last offer expired.
It does not include tax - I was confused bc a few dealers quoted me with the trade in and the tax was net zero but one said that’s not how it works so I started to research. I would think the others would be aware of that though?
2 account meaning just check the same vehicle under a different account? I did that the last time I sold them my Chevy Volt but haven’t messed with it this time.
They may not be. They may just want to show you the lowest number and then surprise you in the F&I office. They may not have understood you were using it as a third-party buyout. It’s not shocking, or uncommon, for this to get mistaken during an early pencil. Bottom line is you can’t get a credit on tax you didn’t pay.
Yes. Get a quote with the first account, then get a quote every day for 6 days on a second account. If at any time the second account beats the first account, switch account roles. Repeat until you can’t beat the quote over 6 days.