Hey guys, need your help, please.
I am trying to lease a Tesla model Y - long range. This is my first Tesla, so far I’ve been somewhat shocked with the experience. Not really knowing exactly what you will pay for your monthly lease and for total DOD before spending $250 and going through the app. However, what is more shocking to me is that if I want to change the configuration of the car to see my actual number (instead of the "estimated) the sales guy told me I will need to go through credit report pull, new application submittance, etc.
Basically, there are a couple of questions/concerns I have:
I submitted an original application for a gray car dealer has on the lot for 24 months lease on Y car. However, now I am thinking before I take delivery of the car, maybe I should lower my monthly payments if I go 36 months. For that the sales guy said I need to reapply in order to get a new number. However, if there is an insignificant change in the payment and I want to go back to 24 months, I will need to reapply again. That is crazy, no?
What do you guys think is leasing Tesla best for 24 or 36 months?
What are ALL of those extra charges on top of the downpayment they charge that is due on delivery? Even though Tesla wanted me to put down $4,500, I submitted an application for $3,500 downpayment. However, even after the $7,500 rebate, I still need to shell out a total of almost $6k on delivery. I don’t think I had almost $2.5k of fees on a gas car lease I’ve done in previous years. Is there a way to get rid of some of those fees? Can any of those fees be at least write off for the tax purposes?
What should I pay special attention during the delivery/accepting car?
Last, but not least, how bad is Tesla on lease returns? Do they stick you with any additional hidden fees?
This has come up quite a bit in the past couple of weeks, but with Tesla, WYSIWYG.
That’s the good news. Tesla is not trying to rip you off, everything is clearly laid out (if not clearly explained), and that’s about it. No upselling, no dealing with F&I pitches.
The bad news? WYSIWYG there is no negotiation, no appeal process, no loopholes or other things.
Tesla leases are through US Bank, and USB can be pretty nitpicky or anal about it. After all, there is no buyout and USB knows they will get the asset back at the end. And no, there’s no circumventing the no-buyout clause. You can transfer the lease to someone else, but it’s still a turn-in at the end.
Frankly, though everyone has their own reasons, Tesla’s are a “buy” more than a “lease”. GLWT!
I asked him what the breakdown was.
4 tires under 4/32: $1200
4 wheels scratches (curbed): $340
Rear hatch dent: $2000
Front left bumper scratch: $450
Front right bumper scratch: $450
Interior front right door scratch: $750
Interior front left door scratch: $750
Have you tried building the car on the Tesla website to see what the lease payments and estimated fees will be? It seems pretty straightforward to me. You can change the lease term, and you can include estimated fees in the total lease cost estimate.