You’re missing the $699 dealer fee (looks like you put it in the acquisition fee column, so I guess you’re missing the acquisition fee), typically loaners have a residual value reduction due to the mileage on them, your due at sale amounts in the calculator don’t match, and you’re assuming buy rate.
You can try to negotiate a larger discount in lieu of the higher dealer fee, but no, generally they’re not negotiable.
As for assuming buy rate, you got the buy rate mf from edmunds and are using that in your calculator. You’re assuming that that’s the rate the dealer is giving you. Often, dealers mark up the mf to a higher rate.
As I’m sure you know, you chose a brand that historically doesn’t lease well. Assuming it’s the car here, not the deal.
The quote has different MFs for each term, which is a bit of a red flag for me. And as you mentioned
Effective 1.248% interest. On the 33 month quote it’s marked up to 2.304%, 36 month is 2.448 and 39 months is 2.568%. If your credit is excellent, I’d push for buy rate in all scenarios (this isn’t typically how leasing works, this is shim-sham I haven’t seen before).
I fiddled with the calculator a bit and I suspect it won’t net out because it’s got some fudge-factor in there. I would go back and question that the numbers they gave you don’t add up, and to walk you through their math. I suspect there is some fat in the monthly payment, you should be close to $700/mo at 36 months on a sign and drive with these numbers:
I’d recommend you take a step back from talk to the dealer about specific leases and spend a while reading through the leasing 101 sections on how a lease is structured, how to read a contract, and how to use the calculator.
Customer cash is the “down payment” up front. You can make it anything you want it to be. The less you pay here, the higher your monthly payment will be.
Lease charge is the “interest” charge as a result of the mf. It’s only dealer fat if they’re marking the mf up, and then only some of it is.