Finding residual value, MF. Cadillac Lyriq

As many have suggested, I’m going to draft a proposal for a lease on a 2026 Cadillac Lyriq in Oregon and send it to mulitple dealers. I’ve kept an eye on the LeaseHackr ‘Signed!’ page and lots of Lyriq deals but the site is overall very quiet for the Pacific Northwest.

A couple of quesitons:

1. I know that Residual and MF are determined monthly by GM. In my proposal do I use the residual and MF that others have posted from out-of-state from this month? Or do I use the values that auto-populate in the Leasehackr Calculator? Do I search for these on Edmunds forum? If I get these values wrong the dealer won’t take the proposal seriously, I fear.

2. General thoughts on asking for 11% off MSRP before eligible rebates (Conquest, GM card).

Thanks. Never leased before and have spent lots of time reading the forums but can’t seem to figure out these two questions. Will cross-post to Reddit Leasehacker forum on their page, hope that’s allowed!

Use the RV and MF you see in the LH calculator. Some people include in the offer and some don’t. If you know how you got to the payment you can just say my offer is $xxx due at sign and $xxx per month, I can sign this today.

Is that what you’ve see in recent Signed deals? If so, sure, why not try for that. But be prepared for a lot of rejections (my impression that dealers in the Pacific NW aren’t known for giving good deals).

Are you targeting a new car or a loaner?

User the MF and RV from ratefindr for your zip code. Another option is the Edmunds forums.

Also if it’s a loaner start with a higher discount. Don’t be afraid to ask 14%

I guess a lonaer if I can find one. Any idea how I can identify one online? The Caddy website doesn’t seem to have a filter for CPO or loaners. Do I just call around?

They’re easy to find. Give this a quick read when you have a moment.

This is a super great post and I appreciate you pointing me in that direction. Because the pacific northwest seems pretty bad for lease deals I’m thinking I’ll ask for 11% off (plus the $1000 incentive) for a loaner. If it’s a new-new car I’ll ask for 9% off, I think.

I’m not looking for the best possible deal, just a good deal without a ton of hassle. If I could find a reputable broker who would get me this in the PNW I’d jump on it and pay their fee. But no brokers in the PNW except for VW/Audi/Porsche that I can find.

Doesn’t cost anything for you to put your target deal/DAS out as an offer…not sure about this car but for one year old loaners general discounting should be in the 20+% range.

You won’t be able to get 20% off on a Lyriq, the car has an inflated residual, so pre-incentive discounted to that extent could potentially get the selling price lower than the residual with incentives.

K, but if the discount difference is only 2 points there is no way I’d get a loaner instead.

Don’t let this deter you. I got mine in Ohio, which isn’t exactly a cutthroat market. I believe some of the best Feb deals came from smaller dealers in the NE.

IME shopping technique (targeting aged inventory and making well-researched, immediately actionable offers) is at least as important as where you’re shopping.

That’s helpful. One more question:
In the LH Calculator for the different trips of a 2026 Lyriq at 3 years, 12,000 miles it’s populating residual values of 60-65%. However, when I go to the “Signed!” section and look at national Lyriq deals from this month (March 2026) I’m seeing residuals of 72-80%! My understanding is that the residual is set by corporate. Can you help me understand this discprenency? Thanks

You need to go off what the ratefindr tells you. Every trim, mileage, and term has a different RV. Those you are seeing in the 70s in Signed are likely 24 months and/or lower than 12k miles. Also, they may have been posted in Signed in March, but it’s possible they were actually signed in Jan or Feb.

Each trim is going to have a different MF, and in some cases RV. Generally the 1s lease better than 2s which lease much better than 3s (substitute equivalent 2026 trim names if you’re shopping for a '26).

RWD and AWD on the same trim have different RVs.

Generally with a heavy incentive stack the 24 month leases yield a lower effective payment. But if you don’t have Conquest or Supplier then 36 might make more sense even with the expected lower RV.

Figure all of this out before you talk to a dealer, and then don’t just collect quotes.

The 3s are the nicest for obv reasons but the lease price will make your stomach hurt. Knowing this upfront helps you focus your time and energy.