If OP wants a more luxurious SUV for the commute the RX is pretty much bulletproof. Not the sexiest SUV out there but neither is the iX. You can literally drive an RX until the wheels fall off.
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Volvo CPO doesnât cover a lot of things. So OP would have a ton of out of pocket expenses over time.
Hi everyone-I have a general lease negotiation question for the community. I am interested in leasing a BMW iX xDrive 50. I know the residual and MF from LeaseHackr. I know the incentives that BMW is currently offering on this car. To negotiate the best deal, is it better to disclose that I am leasing the car and negotiate the capitalized cost, or would it be better just to focus on the price of the vehicle (discount off MSRP), and only later reveal that I want to lease the car after we have agreed on price. Thanks in advance to the community for your advice. (If this question would be better posed on another thread/forum please let me know which one.)
Lol someone got plenty time in their hands 
again he has never posted what it doesnât cover. every time he is called out he runs awayâŚ
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If you get a lot of responses, then we can move the thread so as to not âde-railâ the original thread.
The general advice is to create your own target deal first and then to present monthly + DAS to the dealer and tell dealer you are ready to move forward that same day, if they agree. You should be upfront about leasing from the start b/c lease and finance options can have different incentives, and, if the dealer is willing to negotiate, then you can present the % off MSRP, incentives/rebates, and MF you used to calculate your deal.
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.
Does anyone have specific advice regarding negotiation of the Documentation fee and the title/registration fee?
I live in PA where the state mandates an upper limit on the Doc fee of $387 ($464 if filed electronically). While a number of states have no limit on what dealers can charge in Doc Fees there are states like CA where the fee is capped at $85, Minnesota-$125, and New York-$175. (Edmunds has a nice link detailing all this information:https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html). One could easily make the argument that âif dealers in CA can routinely perform this service for $85, that is all I am willing to pay youâ. On the other hand, maybe for simplicity I should just focus the negotiation on the discount off MSRP as the crucial variable, and not worry about the $464 doc fee.
My local auto tags/registration company charges $239 for Title Transfer + New Registration + New Tag, so that seems like a reasonable amount to offer the dealer to perform the same service.
Thanks for the advice all.
Some things are simply not negotiable. You are going to drive yourself crazy trying to negotiate line item by line item. Knowing these additional costs, concentrate on the total discount. Construct a deal you can live with and present it to several dealers who have the vehicle you want. If none of them bite, then you know you are being too aggressive. A dealer is always going to try to figure out how to get a few more dollars out of you, whether it be inflated add-ons or higher money factors. Just be aware of what they are trying to do and hold firm until one of them agrees to terms set by you.
Thanks for the advice. I think I already answered my own question in some ways. Ignore the doc fee of $464 and the tag/reg/plate fee if reasonable (around $240), as they are small potatoes relative to the negotiation of discount off MSRP.