Is this a reasonable deal?
Received this from a local dealer. Didn’t do any meaningful shopping around yet. The numbers don’t add up exactly to what I see in the dealer’s quote, but I think I got the calculator pretty close to it.
Not really I just got a wind for $466 with $3000 due at signing. You should target 9% off before incentives. Also 24 months have better payments on the EV9.
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Thank you. Just found your thread here, really appreciate the details. Let me see if I can get close to this here in WA. Thanks again!
WA is rough to get good deals…and is that really a HEART drawn on the payment?
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I am looking to lease. I know I want 12,00 miles/year. When I am leasing can’t I just total the amount I will be paying per month times the term plus fees and cap cost? This way I can see how much I will be paying over the life of the lease and compare that to other offers. I need help understanding why consider money factor if it is already built into the price?
You need the money factor to calculate what you should be paying per month based on well researched deals.
You can blindly go ask a bunch of dealers how much they eant you to pay, and choose the cheapest one, but that doesnt tell you if youre getting a good deal or just the least bad deal among a handful of real bad deals.
In my opinion, if you’re basing your negotiation strategy on just comparing dealer offers, you’re setting yourself up for failure.
I see your bad deal point but isn’t the bottom line how much you pay? The money factor, the residual, and the cap cost can go up and down. If I see 6 other people getting a lease deal for 350-360 per month, sign and drive then I know that is what I need to aim for in my deal. It is all relative. Two years ago car buying was crazy high. Good deals then were different than now.
Your discount is only 3.5% and you been told to target 9%. In your terms, that discount gap alone is at least $110/mo. You don’t really need to look at any other variables, It’s not a good deal.
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That’s the first thing I noticed!
How many of them live in the same zip code as you, qualify for the same incentives, have the same tax structure, need the same miles, have the same gov fees, etc?
You should be comparing pre-incentive discounts against other deals and then apply the lease programs (rv/mf/incentives/fees/taxes) as they apply to your situation.
You can not effectively just compare monthly payments. The exact same deal can be easily $100/mo apart between two people because of how the programs apply to them.
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Thank you everyone for chiming in! Looks like consensus is I should be targeting 9% off MSRP. I will explore feasibility with my local WA dealers and circle back. Thanks again.
P.S. I don’t know what’s with the heart but this is what I received from the dealer closest to my home. 
Reporting back, as promised:
Ended up signing a 24/10K lease with the following parameters today:
- Wind AWD
- 11% off MSRP before incentives
- $2,915 DAS
- $479 monthly
Thanks once again @rocketr and other hackrs for your quick feedback on my initial numbers. Amazing community. Much appreciated.
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Great looking ride… Congrats! We are loving ours…
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Thank you and please go ahead!