Hello! I’m currently driving a 2017 S60 T5 Dynamic in red (sport package, Polestar tune, vision package, etc.). I’m about 24 months into the 36 month lease, and I’m at about 33,000 of my total 60,000 mile allowance. I traded in my previous car so I did put about $6,500 down on the lease.
I am looking at perhaps ending my lease early, and that leads me to a few questions. First, the Volvo dealership I got my car from called me about the 9-month lease pull ahead program, which they said I was eligible for (despite having 12 months left), but the salesman didn’t describe well how that would work. Any ideas how they might arrange this? Especially given my trade-in on the lease, I imagine I might lose out in this scenario.
Second, I’m looking at the possibility of getting a buyout quote, as I understand this would just need to be higher than the current payoff amount of the car (purchase price at end + remaining payments). Is this a decent option?
Finally, for a replacement, especially if I do the lease pull-ahead, I’m wondering if it’s reasonable to expect to be in the $400–$450 range with little down (<$1,000) for a 2020 S60 T5 w/ Premium & Advanced packages, or perhaps even an R-Design T5 or T6? I’m also looking at the 2019 330i M Sport w/ Premium package in the same range, which is probably the route I’d pursue if I could get out of Volvo entirely.
Thanks for any advice on these new leaser questions!
Regardless of pull ahead, do you really want to essentially throw away 1/3 of the $6500 you put down? And all those remaining miles? Seems kinda silly.
The new S60 T6 can absolutely be had in the 400s! From what I knew, they did pull ahead 6 months prior to the lease end when I worked at the Volvo store.
Why would you ever give up a Volvo (safest car out there, one of the sexiest cars in design, best orthopedic seats) for a generic, unreliable, junk BMW, which has almost 60hp less LOL, and a payment of $100 more?
I would really suggest test driving the 330i at night, because that red speed display is hideous, and the color tone is so repulsive. The orange was much nicer…
Regardless of pull ahead, do you really want to essentially throw away 1/3 of the $6500 you put down? And all those remaining miles? Seems kinda silly.
Why would you ever give up a Volvo (safest car out there, one of the sexiest cars in design, best orthopedic seats) for a generic, unreliable, junk BMW, which has almost 60hp less LOL, and a payment of $100 more?
One of the reasons I’m particularly keen to get out of this particular S60 (and am likely to look at other brands) is because for the past ~10,000 miles I’ve had a highway vibration issue (steering wheel visibly vibrating and feeling it in the car) that 3 separate Volvo dealers have been unable to properly diagnose despite repeated trips to each. It largely feels like the service departments don’t really care and don’t live up to the price of the cars they’re servicing. My previous Volkswagen service departments were worlds better.
What state are you in? At the dealer where I was at, they had superb service on Volvo’s.
Well, any car can have vibrations…especially BMW’s. Those are like rattlesnakes.
I agree, Volvo falls so short of BMW, MB, Audi even Lincoln on the service front. Love the cars just wish you were treated a little better after you spend your $75k
Come-on, any body with some car experience knows that vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed is a wheel balance issue. Just spring for the rotation, balancing and alignment and you will be good to go…
If you end your lease early, essentially your 6500 down payment goes poof …
So, you paid for 20k miles/year, put down $6,500 and want to give up 1/3 of these money? Doesn’t make any sense, and there is no real pull ahead at 12 months. Also, you can’t trade your Volvo without negative equity.
I doubt you’re trying to be uncharitable here, but this is of course exactly what they’ve done every time. The Hunter Road Force output each time shows everything’s fine, and when the problem persists their suggestion is to try again. The other suggestion was to put a new set of tires on the car, which I did, and of course made no difference. So 3 dealers, I’ve got 5 balance printouts showing everything fine, and $1,500 worth of tires, and still no solution. This is why I’m not quite so hesitant to give up $2166.66, given that it’s probably cost me that in time already, not to mention the early set of new tires.
Of course that doesn’t negate your point, it seems the main downside here is losing that portion of the trade-in.
Another thing to try is probably one of the rims is bent or flat spot. Possibly take it to a shop that specializes in wheel balancing.
Having leased an S60 for 24 months, I would admit to it having a shimmy at 80+ Mph. Are these the speeds were are talking about or it happens at lower speeds?
Other than that, might be an idea to check for prior accidents or loose suspension parts. This is possibly the reason not to put down so much on a lease.
It starts around 40 and gets bad around 60. At true highway speeds it’s pretty miserable.
Also did this once, they said a wheel was slightly out of balance and fixed it, said the rims looked fine.
It was brand new so no accidents. I’m suspecting a suspension issue as you mention.
Back on topic, you’re right, this is probably a case for lowering upfront payments. It made sense at the time, and I didn’t anticipate getting rid of it early.
