Something doesn’t add up because I come up with like $217 a month before tax because you’re basically paying about $8k over 3 years on that deal, especially if you’re paying all fees up front. $450 would be the price I’d expect for a new non-loaner car. Is the mileage hurting the residual or something?
24 mo often doesn’t make sense when there’s a large amount of inception money due like in this case because the upfront $ gets amortized over less months.
Guess can be on a case by case basis. I’m finding the difference between a 61% residual and a 54% residual and 24/36 is 6% savings on the 24 side. Only really starts to work out when pushing past 20% off MSRP though.
When doing a zero-drive off, then in that particular case it’s almost the exact same payment. I’ll always pick the shorter term even if it means a few bucks more a month IMO. I like switching up too much.
Turning in my Mini Cooper S after a 12 month lease. Front tires are balddddddd. So replacing those with some used OEM ones. Ripping on the car everywhere might have been a minor reason why they wore quickly.
I’m religious about rotations, and I can get 2 years out of a set. 3 years, it’s never happened. I have 6 months to go and my tires are at the wear bar. I’m looking for a Christmas sale as we speak!
Also depends on the weight and power of the car. My Genesis is already on its third set of tires before 40k miles despite tires being rotated every 5k miles. To be fair the first set was recalled at 7k miles but the replacement Michelins only lasted about 25k miles…
55% of the original $49k MSRP is roughly 27k. You’re buying the car for 35k which would only be 8k difference between what you paid and the turn in price of 27k. 8k over 36 payments isn’t $450 a month, not by a long shot. Either their math is wrong (using full MSRP or something), or there’s something else not right - sky high MF markup? Lowered residual due to the mileage already on the car?