Good deal or should I back out?
Over MSRP?
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You signed already? Did you drive it off the lot?
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I signed but have time of course to back out. which is what I will do. Any recommendations for what would be a good counter if I should do so?
You sure? Cooling off periods usually don’t exist.
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If you are able to back out don’t try to counter, just move on to another car or dealership or get a broker.
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The time for doing your research and making counter offers is before you sign.
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He stated prior that if I took possession of the vehicle, I would have 7 days to return it and since I didn’t even take possession, it shouldn’t be a problem.
There generally is no cooling off period on car purchases/leases in Wisconsin.
https://wisconsindot.gov/Pages/dmv/cons-protect/buy-sell-veh/purchasecancellation.aspx
https://dfi.wi.gov/Pages/ConsumerServices/WisconsinConsumerAct/MotorVehicleLeases.aspx
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Make sure you get that in writing
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Interesting. He said I have 7 days to return the vehicle if I wasn’t satisfied otherwise I wouldn’t have signed. I sent him and email to cancel and he never said I couldn’t. The part I am confused about and forgive my ignorance. -is the below excerpt, is this where the discrepancy lies?
Gross Capitalized Cost. The agreed upon value of the Vehicle ($ 62957.00) and any items you pay over the Lease Term (Such as service contracts, insurance, and any outstanding prior credit or lease balance) …64,106.00
Wow. $1000/m for different looking Hyundai Kona?
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He also replied:
hey Doug. I got your email. do you mind if I ask how you came to the conclusion you paid over MSRP? the MSRP is just under $63k and the unpaid balance is only $57K. that $6k under MSRP even with taxes title and license and sent this which was the OTD I had asked for.
I would not lease a car until I know how to work the calculator, until then maybe find a broker on this site.
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Post the section of the contract that shows how the gross capitalized cost is calculated.
Right now, you’re showing an at MSRP sales price from the contract. The dealer is intentionally misleading you by trying to represent manufacturer rebates as a discount. If your gross capitalized cost has forced dealer add ons incorporated into it, this is over MSRP with them playing shell games. If the capitalized costs are just normal fees, this is at MSRP.
In either case, you certainly didn’t get any discount, no matter how many times he tries to tell you that a rebate is a discount from the dealer.
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Disposition fee paid upfront?
When did it change?
Thanks for the feedback all. Much appreciated.
Damn terrible way to close out 2023.
I don’t think it’s worthwhile to keep trying to resolve this with the dealer. Just back out of the deal as they’ve claimed you have the right to do… start 2024 out looking for a new car with the help of LH or a broker willing to ship a car up to WI.
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