I did not get the MF nor residual. The salesman said via email that he “did not get the paperwork and his manager just gave him the number in passing.”
It is practically impossible for us to tell you what a “good” monthly payment is for your specific lease as lease programs are highly dependent on region, personal qualifications, tax rates, etc.
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, you’ll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
Read Leasing 101 (EDITORIAL | LEASEHACKR) to understand how to calculate a lease payment and the variables. Monthly payment is an output, not an input!! While you’re at it, be sure to watch the LH video (How to Use Leasehackr - YouTube) to brush up on how to most efficiently use the resources here.
Pick a specific vehicle that you want to target
Gather the current MF, RV and incentives from the LH Calculator - Lease Program Query or Edmunds forums for your zip code
Research the LH marketplace and other deals that have been made recently on your vehicle - what was their pre-incentive discount? How did their lease terms differ?
Plug your numbers into the LH calculator (CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR), and use a pre-incentive discount similar to what you have seen
Create a target deal, this is what you’re trying to negotiate to. You can try different terms, selling price discount, etc. and see how your monthly payment is affected. It is also possible that different trims of your vehicle may have different MF and RV (i.e. this is very common with GM), so make sure that you look into that. Come up with a set of inputs that give you the output that you want - your desired monthly payment.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
About $75-100 more a month. I think the car just has a very poor lease program and it’s out of my budget at this point. Which is fine, but I’ll heed the advice that’s given on the forum at nauseam and shop different makes and models in the market for the best possible deal.
Well it’s their only Mazda 3 turbo hatch and as far as I can tell, one of two in south Florida so I was shooting for 5-6% discount but it doesn’t seem plausible.
And what makes you think that 5-6% discount is a reasonable negotiation target for this car in this market? Why did you choose that number instead of 2-3% or 8-9%?
How did you determine what your target is and why?
Well true car was listing 1-2% as realistic. And I’ve been in contact regularly with the dealer so I set that number as MY target number. The number I would be comfortable with to make a deal realistically.