I’m on the cusp of signing the papers to get this delivered today and want one last verification. I just found this site this weekend and figured I should post this before finalizing it to get the total $20k incentives.
Vehicle base price: $78,900
Vehicle destination charge: $1,400
Version: Long range Dual motor: Included
Exterior: Snow: $1,300
Interior: Bio-attributed MicroTech in Charcoal with aluminium deco: Included
Wheels: 22" Sport: $2,300
Upgrades
Pilot: Included
Plus: Included
Total vehicle price MSRP $83,900
Discounts
Polestar Clean Vehicle Incentive: -$15,000
Total purchase price: $68,900
Tesla Conquest: -$5,000.00
Acquisition Fee: $995.00
Adjusted Capitalized Cost
$64,895.00
Residual is $52,857 (63% of msrp $83,900)
MF 0.0018
With 0 down the numbers are:
MSRP: 83900
Price: 98900
Cap Red: 4646.90
Tesla Rebate: 5000
DAS: 2202.67
Monthly incl Taxes & Fees: 720.30
With 50000 down the numbers are:
MSRP: 83900
Price: 98900
Cap Red: 9517.57
Tesla Rebate: 5000
DAS: 7202.67
Monthly incl Taxes & Fees: 519.73
Curiously, when I reserved the car online, the monthlies with ONLY $15k clean vehicle incentive and $5k down (no Tesla Conquest calculated - so about ) had a monthly of $698.91 with taxes ($658 w/o taxes).
Why is the monthly $720.30 when applying the $5k Tesla Conquest with 0 down? I thought using the Tesla conquest as my “down payment” would result in the same monthly, since it’s a cap reduction regardless.
If the residual is $53k and the cap cost is $65k then your depreciation is just 12k which is around $300/mo. So $400 extra is going to interest charge which is killing the deal it looks like. Why is the price $98k if the cap cost is $65k?
When I looked at the differences in the cap reduction when they apply the Tesla rebate, it looks like I’m getting taxed about $400 off of that. So, I need to ask the sales rep why the $5,000 rebate is not reducing the cap by $5,000.
The top numbers that I listed equating the $5,000 Tesla conquest bringing the capitalized cost to $64,895 is taken from the online order calculator and different than the numbers that the sales rep gave me in the lease numbers breakdown. So where I broke it down you see the cap reduction numbers don’t add up to 100% of the $5,000 conquest incentive.
WHOA! You’re allowing the dealer to control the deal. Let’s back up. The first thing you need to do is learn something about leasing and how all calculations are done. Next, collect and vet all relevant data including acquisition fee, dealer doc fee, title/license/registration fees, any other applicable fees (e.g., tire fee, EV fees, etc.), term, money factor buy rate (if you qualify), sales tax rate (looks like 6.25%), state where car is titled. Looks like the car will be titled in a state that taxes the individual payment streams.
Once you have all the data, create a one-page lease proposal. Contact the sales manager via phone and ask if it would be okay to email them a lease proposal as you would like to get the deal done ASAP. Be sure to email it to the sales manager (SM), not a floor salesperson as they’re often Mickey D order takers and lack knowledge. All numbers should be accurate otherwise, you’ll lose credibility. Negotiate via phone/email. Once an agreement is reached, ask the dealer for a review copy of the lease agreement and all contract addenda BEFORE you go to the dealer and sign. Moreover, it’s helpful to know the terms and conditions of the lease contract such as early termination liability criteria and purchase option criteria as well as lease amortization methodology and excess wear/tear criteria. If all is as agreed, tell the SM that you’ll come in to sign asap. You don’t want any surprises or dealer excuses like …. Oh, we made a mistake. That’s unacceptable and shouldn’t be tolerated.
If the dealer isn’t transparent or is uncooperative or showing signs of incompetence, WALK AWAY AND MOVE ON!
Leasing is time-consuming and requires a good deal of study and attention to detail. If you don’t have the time to commit, perhaps your best alternative is a good broker. There are some outstanding brokers on this website. However, if you’re willing to commit your time and resources, be sure to always control the deal. That can only be achieved with education which breeds confidence and increases the likelihood of success.
If you would like further assistance, you are invited to PM me. Glad to help.
698 vs 720 is the difference between 63% residual and 62% residual. Shifting from 7500 to 10k or from 10k to 12 would do this.
Look at the DAS number to see what you are doing (vs the intersection between rebates/discounts/fees and the like). With 0 down, you are paying 2203, with 5k down, you are paying 7202.
Seeing your MA tag, autoninjas (who I used 4 weeks ago on a P3 Pilot Plus nappa) and aronchi might be able to save the day for you. MA’s RMV makes buying out of state very difficult.
My deal was that I was able to get 10% off MSRP (so 624/month w/1250 due at signing on an $88.3k msrp 27/10k) on top of the 20k incentive (paying 700 broker fee + 650 shipping) It took 3 weeks for the RMV to get me plates where the car sat unused in my driveway.
