Deal Check: Jeep 4xe good deal?

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Trying to figure out if I’m getting a good deal.

2024 Jeep Sahara 4xe - MSRP about $65,000, after rebates/incentives, they are getting it down to about 45,000.

I have a trade they said they will give me $36,000 for, I owe 38,900. This will be rolled into my lease.

They told me best they can do:

$762/month for 42 months, 10,000 mi a year, $2,000 down.

I live in Phila PA (apparently one of the reasons payment is higher). Would be leasing the jeep from a dealer in NJ.

Possibly getting this tomorrow. Am I getting a decent deal? Other deals were telling me over 800.

No, for a $45k vehicle - 760 is very high and that too for 42 months (considering negative 2500 equity).
What about rebates?
Mid 600’s should be your targeted number.

Based on what? Please substantiate this

There are $16500 (plus $1000 for tdm if you have it) in incentives/dealer cash on this, so you’re under 5% discount before accounting for any potential mark ups.

42 month program is an odd choice, dont know why theyrr pushing that.

Which bank is this through? Best programs are with Ally currently.

Also, keep in mind that the programs on these have been changing multiple times a month, so if youve been shopping for more than about 2 days, any previous numbers you have seen are irrelevant.

I got quoted for $550 (36/10)on a Sahara here in Tx.
Considering PA state and negative equity, it should not be more than $650.
Banks might change rates and programs frequently, but as a buyer, I would wait and see till I get my targeted number.

They just got back to me and will do the $762 with $0 down, 12,000 mi a year, and now 36 month lease. The MSRP was $65,835. This payment is way lower than I have been quoted for the last 2 months or so. It includes rolling in my negative equity from my financed car which has been around $2,500 to 5,000 depending on dealer.

MSRP
$65,835
Doc Fee
+599
Price
$66,434
Factory rebates:

  • $7,500
    Final Price 58,934

Seems not too bad to me? I’m not sure. I know these don’t lease great right now but Other dealers has me in $800-900s.

Let me reiterate what i already said.

Programs on these have been changing significantly this month. Numbers from last week will be different than 3 days ago, which will be different from today.

Numbers from a TX deal which may have had sales tax credits from who knows when are of no bearing.

The fact that you’re not sure what a good deal is the problem. You can not effectively negotiate a deal if you don’t know what a good deal is.

You need to work that out before moving forward. There is no other reasonable course of action for you take right now other than working out your target deal. Stop talking to dealers until you have done that.

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This is atrocious if it is as shown.

This is $9000 over msrp.

How is it 9,000 over msrp if they are getting the vehicle down with rebates etc to around 45000? I’m very bad with all this.

One issue is I live in Philly. PA charges 6% on leases but because I’m in Philly it’s 8% which always make the payments more.

The sticker is 65,000. With all incentives and rebates, and my negative equity, and the fact I’m in Phila county, $760 is still bad for the 36 months and 12,000 mi?

Post your LH calc link on a target payment/DAS you have put together for people here to review. If you can’t do this don’t even think about signing a deal. Learn or leave 1000s on the table.

Its not if theyre getting it to $45000. What you just posted that I was responding to and said “if it is as shown” was a final price of $58934 after rebates.

Let’s back out the markup from that number: $58934 final price + $7500 incentive + $9000 dealer cash - $599 doc fee = $74385 pre-incentive selling price

$65835 msrp - $74385 selling price = -$9450 dealer discount

Post the calculator link to your target deal of what this should be and the answer to this question will be clear.

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Forget the lease for now. Is your trade value fair for the current market?

No, ofc not. This is a terrible deal.

Leasehacking requires knowing what is hackable at what point in time. You’ve missed the boat on the last round of Jeep deals and you either need to wait for the next one (TLDR, no one knows when) or choose something else if it has to be soon/now.

They just came back and said they actually can only do the 760 a month payment for 2000 down 10,000 mi a year for 42 months. Which includes the negative equity for my car. They were going to give me around 32,000 for my car. I owe 38,900. Kelly blue book estimates it to be worth around 32-36 ish as a trade. Carmax instant offer is 34. The sticker on the Sahara like I said was 65,000 and they claim they are taking around $19,000 off that.

I passed on the deal today. I need to obviously do more research on here and figure out what a decent payment is on these vehicles as of now. Still can’t find any solid info on that. Just worried how much more negative equity I will have in my trade the longer I wait.

? We have suggested to learn how to use the calc to put a target payment/DAS together. Do that.

Is your current vehicle a lease? If so your only fiscal option is to ride it out to completion. If financed and with that much negative equity which you won’t be able to get rid of just keep it until wheels fall off.

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There is no great solution right now on the 4xe. It’s a matter of which arm or leg would you like to chop off. I have one as a spare vehicle in the household (and it’s fun for what it is) but that is pennies on the dollar…especially compared to now.

They’re not worth the money in the current market/programs imo. Please take the advice from Matt & Max.

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In what way are we failing to communicate to you what you need to do? Help me understand where the disconnect is.

1- Your Jeep deal is horrible.

2- Why would you trade your car for $32,000 if Carmax gave you $34,000?

3- What’s the current car you drive? Can’t you hold on to it a little longer?

PA charges 9% on the monthly payment of a lease

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