@amfboots - I would strongly suggest reading this: READ ME FIRST: Getting Started With Leasehackr Forum.
As I stated in one my earlier post, check out EDITORIAL | LEASEHACKR.
There are brokers you can work with. They post their deals in the “Marketplace”. Fyi, most charge a fee for their services.
Another point to consider, by effectively financing this car at full price (plus fees, etc), the value of thousands of dollars worth of manufacturer rebates that you had on the lease will have gone up in smoke as well.
Sell the car, use the 4k or so ‘profit’ and roll it into a Bolt for 3 years.
@Bluemkn57cars
So truthfully, I just ran into this website a little over an hour ago. I was unfamiliar with options and things that I can do to make things work in my favor. My main goal was to buy a car that I can use for the next ten years at least. It’s looking more and more to be like I’ve made a poor decision which I have no choice but to learn from.
I appreciate all the insights and answers once again.
If you are serious about buying a car that will last you for the next decade I would sell the Maxima and take the equity you have to your local Honda/Toyota/Maybe Lexus dealer depending on your budget and use it as a down payment for a purchase, not a lease. Done and done.
I really like that idea. The only issue with the car is that it has been in 2 accidents, mostly cosmetic. I’m afraid that it will lessen the value of the car to the point where the difference where I would sell it wouldn’t be any equity at all. lol.
Well you initially said “minor wear”… Are the accidents reported on the carfax, and have they been properly repaired? That’s a variable that could change things a lot, depending on the charges from Nissan if they are not repaired, as well as the value of the car from your perspective, etc.
Lol ‘there is minor wear and tear’ I hope doesn’t turn into ‘There is Accidents(Plural) reported on Carfax’
If so then your Carvana quote just went down 5k.
5k, or more, depending how ‘minor’ these accidents were.
The accidents we’re all reported and fixed through insurance companies. I imagine that these things get reported automatically? I’m not too sure about that process.
If you went through insurance, 99.9% chance it was reported and in car fax, reducing your car’s used car resale value.
This is why I personally don’t recommend big ccr, or commuting leasing to buy at inception.
covenants, conditions & restrictions?
Capital cost reduction, aka down payment, not ‘down”, or ‘down at signing/das’.
@amfboots just a suggestion - get those selling price estimates to help you with your decision. Don’t be surprised if you get dinged for the accidents and you don’t get the lift you were expecting for being under-mileage (it’s never as much as folks think it should be). That will really help you decide your next steps. Good luck and let us know how it goes
with accidents you won’t get your RV. turn the car in and be done with it and either lease or buy something else. You don’t want to buy out this car its basically throwing another 3-4k away. $462 a month for a SL maxima isn’t the worst deal ever but you could have gotten a better car for that payment. I would maybe contact a broker if you want to lease again
Buy a brand new Toyota, Honda, Hyundai or Kia.
Do not buy a Nissan Corp or FCA product.
And obviously don’t buy a car with two reported accidents.
